Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Increased braking performance...

OK, Larger rotors are nice for the occasional hard stops, but how can we keep the braking system temps down under hard, repeated braking?(read:track days) The CSVT is notorious for a lack of fresh air to the rotors/calipers, and there isn't a whole lot of room to run brake ducts. I think Mirko ran ducts to the rotors, but he also removed much from the car (washer fluid tank, bumper shocks/filler, etc.)that is needed for everyday use. I do realize that the larger rotors dissipate heat faster, and some people believe that drilled rotors dissipate heat quicker, but what about a cooler air supply?

The simple answer is...

...Yes.

Actually, larger rotors don't really do much for you on the occassional hard stop. It's the repeated use and high heat production that makes them necessary.

Drilled rotors will not dissipate heat faster.

I assume you already have good pads and fluid. If not Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is really good for the price... but you have to change it out frequently. EBC Red Stuff pads are also very good for the track. I am not sure you can get a set of Red Stuff pads or not....

Since you already have the SVT brakes with larger rotors I would think you shouldn't have too many heat related brake problems once you change the fluid and pads.


I saw you mention ducting in another thread. I would highly recomend it. It may not be the easiest thing to do but moving air over the calipers and rotors will help out a bunch.

The key to repeated hard stops is larger rotors and agressive pads. Why would you not think it was that?

First get some agressive pads then if that's not enough get bigger rotors.

Just as a little FYI on brakes.

For the ocassional hard stop there is not much of a difference between most "stock" brakes and a big brake kit.
It's on the track where big brakes and agressive pads really come into play.

OK, just so people don't continue to think that I'm looking for info without trying anything...
I've run track events at Road Atlanta with the following combinations:
Stock rotors/stock pads = no good at all
Stock rotors/EBC Greenstuffs = Good for 2hrs on track, then
pads are gone.
Stock rotors/KVR Carbon pads = Lasted 3hrs on track, smelled
bad, but little fade.
Cross drilled rotors/KVR pads = warped 2nd session

For all these sessions, I also have installed 4"x9" Pegasus brake ducts in the lower grille with 3" ducting running under the A-arms to the rotor/caliper assembly. I also have synthetic Brake fluid and SS braided brake lines. Under hard braking, the ducts grind pavement, and lose effectiveness after awhile I would imagine since they have gaping holes.
CTA lists EBC Redstuffs, but the folks at EBC say they don't make Redstuffs for the CSVT.
Hawk will custom build on factory backing plates, but at $300/set!!
I think it was Seth Jacoby at the SCCA runoffs with a CSVT last year, and he was braking way before the other SSB cars, even though they are lighter...
Going to a larger rotor would be great, but also puts the car illegal for SSB or ITS, as do the drilled rotors.

In reply to:

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Going to a larger rotor would be great, but also puts the car illegal for SSB or ITS, as do the drilled rotors.

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It's all about class rules.

So I guess larger rotors are out of the question, if you want to stay in class.

Ducts are a good idea, as you know, but there are problems, as you also know.

Are your wheels of an open design that allows plenty of airflow to the rotor?

Is your brake fluid capable of handling the high temps of track use?

Pads... I was going to say EBC redstuff. Tirerack offers this pad for the early cars, and for SVT "after 5/98." When I plug in a 99 SVT, the Redstuff pad goes away. Aren't the later pads the same as the early pads, only on a larger rotor?

Anyway, there are other pad choices as well, such as Porterfield R4S, etc, and I think solid rotors will be your best bet for max heat sink.

Also, have you seen the article below? It may be helpful.

http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/brakes.html

I have seen the article, which was great reading if I remember correctly. I posted much of the section on the benefits of slotted rotors on this forum when it came out.

My current setup is as follows:
Stock rotors/KVR pads, SS brake lines, Ford motorsport 550 fluid.

According to templates by BAT, the backing plates are different on the later SVTs. I haven't tried them myself though...
For SSB, ducting is out. But for ITS, which should be next year eligible IIRC, I may be able to fabricate fiberglass ducts that dont go much below the a-arms, but keep a sufficient diameter as to allow unchanged airflow from the foglight holes.

I've hear that Portefield makes pads for our app. Not listed on the sie but you have to ask. I've heard good things about them and they don't eat your rotors like the Hawk's

I think all the pads you have mentioned are still street pads. What does that mean? Well, street pads have a high coefficient of friction at a wide range of temperatures. So,when it's -10 out and you start you car and drive down the street the pads will give you the same "bite" as they do when it's 80 out. Race pads don't work well for the street because their friction coefficient is very low at ambient temperatures. That means until you brakes are heated up they won't stop very well. Not an ideal sitiuation for the street. You get into your car head out, hit the brakes and the car does not start to slow down for another 30 feet. Plus they eat rotors. I know you can get custom pads made. To do this you'll needs some old pads that can be cleaned off so you can use the backing plate again. This is something you might want to look into.
Lastly, even the best pads and rotors will fade if used very heavily for an extended amount of time.


Concerning you crossdrilled rotors warping after two events I bet you just had some pad build up on the rotor surface. It takes very little build up for you brakes to feel like they are warped. I could be wrong but it would not surprise me if that was it.

I hope these ideas help out.

Got any pics of your brake ducts?