Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications General Mods Battery relocation help

I purchased the Summit battery relocation kit. I grounded the battery to the chassis near the trunk but I'm not sure what to do with the small wires that attached to the original negative battery terminal. I tried searching and saw some of the posts recommended using a remote insulated battery terminal, but I'm not sure what function that has. Can anyone who has already done this provide info on what to do with these wires?

Will Audiophile grade 4 ga. power wire work to relocated the battery to the trunk? I have black loom and 20' of red straightwire 4 ga. power cable.

What do you do with the rest of the wires that need power at the front, splice, bolt, or what?

I assume the ground wires you just ground to the chassis.

For the negitive wires just mount them to the chasis. I was told that on our car, we should run a negitive cable also, so that is what I did. If your car starts throwing up codes on the computer. better run the extra nevitive cable.

I ran the 2 ga. power wire from the summit kit and just used a wire splicer for 0-6ga. wire (I think that's what it was called) from Home Depot to connect the power wire to the all of the wires that were originally connected to the positive terminal. There were 2 smaller wires that originally piggybacked the negative battery cable. One of them went to the fenderwell (I eliminated this one) and the other went to the fusebox under the hood (I grounded this one to the fenderwell). Now my power window fuse continually blows out! I'm wondering if I upset something among all of those grounds. Do you guys think the best option would then be to run a negative back to the battery and reconnect all of the grounds the way they were originally? BTW, thanks for the help!

Ground '-' on the front inner fender, make sure you connect what was the old heavy battery neg line,AND the main heavt neg that goes to the trans bell housing and the neg grounds from the dist /fuse box...

It is possible that you have a significant voltage drop if you have poor quality connections or ground.

A lower voltage requires more current to do the same work.

P=VI (power = voltage*current)

So it is possible you are now drawing more current at the lower voltage to move your windows, bye bye fuse.

TB

Exactly!

I have two runs of 2GA cable on my battery relocation. No problems whatsoever. I drive the car all winter and even cold-starting wasn't a problem.

HoosierContour, 4AWG is to small. It will work initially, but you can burn it out rather quickly. Minimum 2AWG runs with very good grounds. Even with this size I'd run both + and - front to back, plus ground the - at each end to keep from getting to large of a voltage drop. If you run a high powered stereo, run a 0AWG with good grounds on each end.

One way to check your grounds is to watch your battery cables for corrosion. If they corrode very quickly, say within a few weeks to a month, improve your grounds and/or increase the size of your wire. Used to see this all of the time when I worked at a stereo shop installing custom systems.

Where exactly in the trunk do you recommend placing the battery box?

Passenger's side, rearward of the right rear wheel to offset driver's weight. If you don't care about weight distribution, (shame on you) then anywhere back there will work.