Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Power Door Locks

Thanks for the help so far, I was finally able to get back to working on the problem, I ran new power to the drivers side switch and lock/unlock worked fine. I tried the passenger switch and got nothing, the switch is good, so I ran power to it and tried it, it would only lock, but wouldn't lock. Any suggestions?? Also, I checked for any breaks in the wiring beneath the passenger seat and couldn't see anything obvious, most of the wiring was wrapped or in the plastic sleeves.

Well make sure you try the connector I suggested earlier. BTW switch lights fed separately, but not thru' dimmer.
Not neccesarily relevant here but I once had a power window wiring break in wire harness between door and car body caused by age/repeated door openings.

Have you re-entered the 'keyless-entry code'for each transmitter (& reset the clock & radio, etc.) after disconnecting the battery? At least this has to be done on my '95!

I don't have keyless entry, when I get the chance, I'm just going to check the entire lock wiring from the fuse box to the relay and both switches to find any breaks since trying to run new power would be a hassle and would only solve my problem for one of the switches.

horseydug, after looking back at you message (and actually reading it completely this time ) about the connector I checked it and I'm not getting any power from the Orange wire. I ran power to that spot and it did nothing. I did find out why the passenger switch would only work one way, the connector to it was worn a bit and I corrected that. When I temporarily ran power to either switch the locks would work fine, but only to the switch that I had power going to, not the other. Should I just run new power to each switch or is there something else I should look at? Thanks for all your help.

Any chance someone's spliced into orange wire for aftermarket stuff, like radio, alarm? If so check splice.

I wouldn't recommend re-wiring and bypassing relay at this point since it's presumably in the circuit for some reason, albeit unknown to me at this point. Relay not simple contact/coil type, also has solid-state circuits.

Will post later if something comes to me, just a blank right now.


p.s. I've temporarily loaned out my wiring diagrams so I'm trying to recall circuit from my posts here.

Originally posted by MentalGoop:

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Should I just run new power to each switch ...

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You could run +12 to relay switch outputs mentioned earlier (with relay out) to check wiring integrity to doors.

Originally posted by horseydug:

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You could run +12 to relay switch outputs mentioned earlier (with relay out) to check wiring integrity to doors.

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Did this and all doors locked and unlocked when I applied power to the respective output.

This is going to sound odd, but I checked the Orange wire on the connector in the passenger kick panel and it's getting power now so I'm going to follow it back under the seat to see if I see anything.

Hurray!!! I found the problem!!! After untaping a bunch of wire underneath the passenger seat, I found where the main door lock power was tied to 5 other wires and when I untaped the corroded mess it all fell apart so now I'm going to fix that and it will have solved my door lock problem. Thanks horseydug for helping out so much.