Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications General Mods Vortech Users, Battery Relocation Questions

Hi all Vortech Supercharger users. As I am getting nearer to the time of the install of my kit, I was just wondering if I could get some suggestions on what you folks did as far as the electrical connections under the hood and in the trunk.

My plan is to install the battery and tray beside the left strut tower, run a positive to the cap, and run another positive separately to the front, using the original amp cable. Ditto for the negative, as recommended by the the shop that is doing the SC install. Reasons, starting issues in colder weather due to a weak ground. Guess that makes sense.

Now the issue I am running into is up front. What to do with the existing battery post connectors. Would anyone happen to know if there is such a thing as a dummy terminal block, to which I can simply fasten the existing post connectors or do I have to cut and paste the new cables to the old. My Amp breaker (not a fuse) currently up front, has to be relocated to the back too.

TIA for your responses and assistance.

I've seen a couple of interesing approaches to this. The cleanest install I've seen was OutlawedSVT(sp?) battery relocation. He has some trick looking clear plastic covered terminal fuse blocks mounted in the engine compartment and in his trunk.

I'd suggest a post in the Kansas City forums to see if he'd post some pics.

From the, functional, but not so pretty, I also saw the connections made inside a large plastic conduit box. Doesn't look so trick, but it does appear to work.

I really don't understand why you would run a seperage ground to the front. I suspect, the entire body of the car is a lower resistance path than 0 gauge wire. So my belief is you are making a more resistive path by forcing your starting current to travel through two full body runs of 0 or 2 gauge wire.

Finally, check my post about Dyna-Batt batteries. I do know you are near the great white north but I suspect this car won't get driven in really bad weather.

http://www.contour.org/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=003939

The more I think about it, the more I think I'll go with the "925" sized battery. It's size approaches normal car battery CCA ratings and is still lighter than most car batteries.

HTH,

TB
Sorry, I'm not a Vortech user, but I replied anyway.

Use a distribution block from any good audio supply store. Worked great on my install for both positive and negative..

Thanks guys. Here is an idea that I would like to do. I would like to keep the stock terminals at the front, as remote jumping points, just in case. Is there something like dummy posts, in a nice fixture or block, that I can purchase that I can install under the hood? I may be making the situation more difficult for the install but I am looking at the convenience factor down the road.

not sure if you have one or not, but getting a gel cell battery would eliminate the need for a battery tub

If you dont want to keep the original battery terminal on the cable I have the perfect item (they are cheap too) All you need is this one block and four ring terminals (2 for + and 2 for - )

Or you can use two of these blocks (one for + with a fuse) the other for ground. I'll see if I can get a pic of one (I have a couple, its not an item we sell)

You'll find a great pic of the clear plastic box here.....also a nice pic of the oil presseure gauge sending unit installed behind the a/c

I have already purchased an Optima Red Top and a simple battery tray for the trunk.

Bill, thanks for the suggestions. Could you send me the pics to chris@ctamotorsports.com?

Thanks.

Yes I would like to see some pics to work some ideas