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Mine is a piece of crap!! if you have good syncros you are in the minority!

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First off, this is a good idea to have this forum, nice thought Road Runner

Secondly,
My Bro's 95Se MTX-75 just [censored] the bed last weekend. This is after $1200 of clutch, hydralic, fuel filter work two months ago and 1 day after $150 of leaky manifold/other stuff work. All of a sudden, he couldn't get it into first or second gear in a mall parking lot. Was able to get home by starting out in third gear and basically not stopping.

Man it was funny, when I rolled into the driveway, the car was in the front yard with a $1500 for sale sign on it. He had basically had it with this car.

Well, we got in it, I had no problem getting into first or second gear. Only thing was, just as I would let the clutch out from being all the way on the floor, it would "bump" into gear. It happened in both first and second, obviously something wasn't right.

Brought it to our mechanic, as he was test driving it, all of a sudden crash/bang! Car won't move, got out and looked underneath, friggin pieces lying everywhere. There was a hole in the casing! And parts everywhere. He took what he could from the "scene of the crime" and basically told us its shot, not really worth rebuilding, as there was pieces all over the place inside there and we'd need to get a whole new casing, more work than its worth.

I have this one piece, looks like a rod, about an inch in diameter, that was broken. You know, my mechanic said its possible that the piece when it was cast had a bubble in it or something. You could see that it was simply solid cast metal, but it looked two two different colors of metal, one a darker shade of grey. I will post the broken piece and an example of the casing broken if I can find a digi.

So basically, this 'Tour is dead. Will cost about 1000-1500 I guess to fix, and we would be lucky to get 2 Gs for it, so my dad doesn't want to pay for it. My Bro doesn't have that kind of cash, still a college kid. Its too bad, he really liked that litle car. We'll probably donate the car to the Cancer Society of which my dad will get 28% of good market value for the car as a tax write-off, probably around 600. We did that for my previous ride, a '91 Merc Tracer, man that car had a peppy little engine, but tranny went, and I didn't want to spend the money to fix.

That is unless anyone wants to buy a "needs tranny work" 95SE with 120K on it?


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Originally posted by Cappuccino911:
Mine is a piece of crap!! if you have good syncros you are in the minority!
yeah they are peices of crap but not just the tranny the car is a peice of crap i have 50000 on my svt and have a sea of problems one after another an another i will never ever buy ford again.

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my isn't a peice of crap, don't generalize the 'tour


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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maybe I should say the MTX's are pieces of crap, I don't here too many problems about the ATX's

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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
my isn't a peice of crap, don't generalize the 'tour
yes it is you just dont know yet. knock on wood

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Maybe you just need to learn how to drive stick better . I have 73,xxx miles on my car and NO problems thusfar. I am impressed with my zetec engine and mtx-75 reliability.

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you don't have to be a [censored] genius to drive stick and you have to be a real moron (like someone who revs to 3000 and drops the clutch) to [censored] up the tranny. I drove mine like a normal person and 3 gear synchros are f'd up. Fortunately the power of the motor means I don't need to use third gear anyway.

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Here Here...

NONE of this has to do with ANYONE"S driving habits...

I burned through TWO CD4Es and BOTH of them were maintained better than my WIFE !

I don't beat on my car, and I don't race it wither.
I DO a lot of highway driving, which is suppose to PROLONG your car's life.

So tell me how I burned TWO automatics ?

SVTRitchie, & Slim Shady had their clutch pad disintegrate at 35,000 miles EACH!
They don't beat on their cars either.
I personally know at least 6 people with MTX-75's that went bad, for whatever reason,
and they had the cocktail mix installed also.

I even know some people with Cougars and Probes that have the exact same problems we do.

If your car is problem free - that's great !
Not many Contours were built on Tuesday.
It seems that MOST of them were built on Friday.





Pete... 2004 Mercury Marauder 300A Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER DOB 10/31/2003 DOP 1/2/2004 www.mercurymarauder.net
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Cappuccino911 check out your ATX service records and tell me if you followed the below recommendation

Primary Cause of ATX failure

o Insufficiently frequent ATX oil changes & overheating are the primary causes of automatic gearbox failure.
o ATX oil (ATF) should run at 175oF, every 20oF above that halves its lifetime - coolant temperatures quarter its lifetime. The gearbox oil is continually contaminated by the circulation of clutch-pack abrasive particles throughout the gearbox.
o Factory change intervals (600hrs) are too long compared to the high temperature service life (300hrs) of ATX oil.
o In slow moving traffic there is little or no airflow over the tiny factory cooler, and at the same time the thermal input into the ATX oil will be at it's greatest through normal torque-convertor slippage. At a minimum the factory should have implemented a slightly larger cooler with it's own temperature switched fan.
o The CD4E is a poor transmission, the 4EAT/GF4A-EL is a better transmission (fitted to V6s) but both have overheating problems.

Solutions

o Stage-1 - Improve Contaminant Removal
-- Annual ATX fluid changes
The factory specified interval of 2yrs/24,000 miles is too long.
An average speed of 40mph for 24,000 miles requires 600 hours of running, yet ATX gearbox fluid will degrade in GM THOT tests under 300 hours.
Thus the ATX fluid change interval should instead be 1yr/12,000 miles.

A Synthetic ATX fluid is available and withstands higher temperatures, but in view of the abrasive material contamination in ATX gearboxes it is better to use a non-synthetic oil annually than be forced through expense to leave a synthetic oil in for two years: clean oil is best. Clean oil can also markedly improve shifting & fuel economy.

-- Avoid Incomplete ATX fluid changes
Changing the oil on an ATX involves dropping the ATX oil pan and replacing the mesh filter. Unfortunately this only changes 3.8L of oil with 5L of dirty oil and abrasive particles still remaining in the torque-convertor & gearbox.
To change all 8.8L of oil requires the following procedure: two large 20L buckets, one with 10L of oil, the other empty; hoses to the ATX oil cooler are removed and extended into the empty bucket; the engine is started for 1 second and the hose ejecting oil is left in the empty bucket whilst the now identified oil-intake hose is moved to the bucket containing fresh oil; the engine is restarted and run until only clean oil exits. Two people are required and Dealers do not perform such a service as routine - it must requested. Complete oil changes will greatly extend the life of the ATX.

Complete oil changes as per the procedure above are DIYable, with a cost of 30$US versus 2500$US for a gearbox repair they should be considered mandatory.

-- Inline ATX Oil Filter
The mesh filter on the 4EAT ATX oil pan filters only to 200 microns. Inline ATX-specific filters can be fitted which filter down to 50-10 microns and so remove abrasive clutch material as it occurs rather than circulating it around torque-convertor, clutches, valve-body, oil pump. Traditional "spin-on filters" & adapters are available.

The CD4E transmission has a filter, but it is embedded deep inside the transmission for some reason known only to Ford. Thus it is very advisable to buy an external inline oil filter (eg, www.permacool.com) and do a complete fluid change annually. The transmissions are rated only slightly above the US AXOD Taurus transmissions, and so the use of cheapest-brand full-synthetic annually may be advisable since some problems are as much design as overheating related.

o Stage-2 - Improve Thermal Cooling
-- ATX fluid is used for lubrication, hydraulics (1,910 psi), cooling and actual transfer of power to wheels. With power transmission losses of 20% and 120kW available from the engine, up to 24kW largely in the form of heat must be removed by the ATX fluid & a tiny factory ATX cooler.
-- When ATX fluid is overheated or "burnt" it degrades to a brown colour and loses lubrication capability causing rapid transmission wear. Such breakdown of ATX oil through overheating can be sudden, is non-reversible and not readily obvious until catastrophic failure results.


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