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#425077 09/05/02 07:17 PM
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PPC-Racing,
This forum ends up like that about impassioned things like this indefatigable V6 turbo that's been R&D for at least a year now.
SO, I think the comments are welcome, some people just digress into attacking the person making the comments, instead of focusing on the intention, which is a healthy discussion about how to mod our cars.
If your TT setup is indeed infinitely better than the single SF, so be it, if not, fine. Introducing some competition and asking some germane questions is what this forum is about, so ignore the personal attacks, those people are so wound up on the development of the product they forgot that there isn't such thing as perfection.

Just as a side comment, SF has put a lot of R&D into the development of this thing, and the pics, from the old contour.org, looked like they experimented with everyting, so until we get a comment from Keyser or Chris or Terry, none of us should really be getting all up in PPC's face.

#425078 09/05/02 08:13 PM
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Originally posted by Rara:
oh, boy, I wish I had some more time to post my design critique, and critique of Mr. PPC-Racing's comments




Beware. He may not answer your valid questions either...


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#425079 09/05/02 10:05 PM
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Well, I hope he comes back. I liked the engaging dialogue. Besides, I believe if your product, much like any truth claim in life (I'm exMormon so I am big on any truth claims standing up to scrutiny) SHOULD stand up to scrutiny. If you have to back down on your product, that doesn't show credibility. Hey, the Beta was better than the VHF but look what most VCR users own? So, a good marketing plan is valid point for criticism too. Who wants a better product if a manufacturer doesn't stand by it. That is how I feel about Ford and their SVT contour. In any case, let's have an adult debate on the finer points of design engineering and let the educated consumer decide. Come back and answer the questions. Enjoy the diversity of the board.

One little comment though, changing out the slugs in an engine to change the compression ration is not my idea of a true bolt on kit. Response?


stock 1998 silver frost SVT E0 #1545 out of 6535 * K&N drop-in air filter * DMD * Koni's w/ stock springs * Autolite double platinum * Tranny cocktail * Mobil 1 Snyth Oil @ 60K miles
#425080 09/05/02 10:14 PM
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Originally posted by holycowSVTpaul:
compression ration

HA!! I'm not the only one that messes that word up


How many Vs would a VTEC TEC if a VTEC could TEC Vs? The one, the only....FRNKNFORD http://www.westvalleycs.com
#425081 09/06/02 12:27 AM
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PPC-Racing,

In reply to:

it's amazing, how, ' clique', like places become after a short while, heaven forbid someone come in a comment, not with a slam on a product but opinions and in some cases options or questions about parts of what they have done..


Hmm, I don't understand, maybe I'm just dumb, but I saw a pretty hefty slam on a product, including insulting the engineering behind the kit multiple times. Not that I have a problem with offering an opinion on a product, but don't expect to not get other's opinion of your opinion. You seem to be one of those "everybody's free to have an opinion" type people, excpet of course, if thier opinion, or the actual truth conflicts with your own opinion. I seem to remember someone else like this.

In reply to:

I was pretty sure grown-ups resided here, with mr. Rara's comments forth coming and other comments, not focusing on the comments about the product but rather aimed at the person saying them, I see that I was mistaken.


I can assure you that adults certainly do reside here, and sometimes we engage in somehting called "technical discussion". It's fun really, where one side posts their insights and opinions on a technical matter, and then another person does the same, either agreeing or disagreeing with the other person, but giving real reasons why; and the discussion goes round and round with all parties benefiting from the sharing of technical information. Really its too bad you don't feel up to that. You imply I would focus on you as a person, rather than your comments, I am offended, seeing as how I do not know you, nor do I know your name, or even what you look like, how could I possibly have anything to comment on but your comments? You were mistaken, but only in the fact that you seemed to think everyone would simply take your evaluation as gospel, without some sort of discussion on the matter.

In reply to:

this being my fouth post I beleive.. I will make it my last and leave, so save your attacks on ME for email if you wish me to see them.

wish I could say I enjoyed the ' debate' but it seems I've ended up defending, myself at large.


Again, do you expect no one to disagree with your evaluation? You come in and make an attempt at ripping this kit apart technically, and expect no-one to defend it? If you are truly capable of an intelligent technical discussion on the matter of forced induction, then I will truly be quite sad to see you go.

Well, on to the technical discussion . . .

In reply to:

I am building a TT kit for the duratec


First, have you discovered yet, that locating the turbo for the rear bank is going to be a quite difficult task?

In reply to:

I can just reash 1480F on the manifold.. now I don't know where your boys get thier metal info from but 321 is good for sustained use at 1850F and 304 is good to 1400F. I also don't know about your welders but I'm sure you've been told that mixing very different alloys like 321 and 304 is not a good idea as even TIG welds will be compromised.


First, exhaust gas temperatures are completely dependant on tune, and the exhaust port design, so the temperature on your supra manifold may or may not be anywhere near what this kit may see.

Second, I don't recall ever reading that they are welding together 321 and 304. It may well be that the headers are 321 while the downpipe may be 304, I don't know, and I highly suspect you don't either.

In reply to:

the water/air IC is an odd chioce given the very low boost levels your working at, adding more complexity to a design is a Jr. Eng. students folly. a simple air/air IC will do the same job with less parts to go worng.


Are you a Jr. engineering student? because I see any twin turbo setup in a contour as needlesly complex.
Anyway, The water to air IC however, is, IMHO, an excellent choice in this application, due to the extremely limited package space, and the desire to limit tear-up to the vehicle receiving the installation. An air to air unit, is typically more desirable, however, in the case of the contour, space is so limited, that an adequate sized core would require considerable modification to the vehicle, and tear-up to fit, and could possibly jeapordize the concept of maintaining an adequate engine cooling system.

Yes, and air to air will do the same job, but requires significantly more continuous package space, and significantly more complex and longer plumbing to achieve the same charge cooling effect as the small water to air unit. This is package space the contour just doesn't have, at least not without ripping lots of things apart, and re-engineering most everything to work properly again. Not that it cant be done, but the water/air IC is a much better overall choice for this application.

In reply to:

I noticed the dyno info was done with the upgraded BB T28, not the bushing model. I'd like to see those numbers..


Why? the kit includes the ball bearing T28.

In reply to:

E manage is overkill, nice, but over kill, I use that in my full race kits for 400hp zetecs. Thier are better products for the boost level your working with.


I see proper fuel management as essential to a healthy turbo engine calibration. I would be interested to see what you deem to be a better product for this boost level, and how much it costs.

In reply to:

So you've chosen to run at MAX tunnable settings on an SVT and to reduce the Pre-det you've used a complex, ( relative to an air-air IC), system to do it. instead of simply lowering the compression and running an air/air IC. There's a reason why no one but draggers use air/water system. It's not nearly as reliable as air/air IC.


I already covered why a water/air IC is a better choice for the contour application, but I would also like to point out that a properly designed water/air IC system is extremely reliable, and is very often used in OEM applications. Oh yeah, and lowering the compression on a Duratech isn't really that easy or inexpensive, nor is fitting an air/air IC. Of course, if you are shooting for more than 350hp, then yeah, the lower compression is required to keep the dynamic compression ratio in check.

In reply to:

with My TT kit the first thing I will reccomend for those that wish to run over 7 psi on an SVT is to change out the slugs for lower compression.


Good, finally we at least sort of agree. Lower compression, yes. Though, I think the SVT even is ok up to ~9 psi with a good tune.

In reply to:

Then the NA specific SVT setup. Even the bump sticks overlap too much on an SVT for proper boosting.


Also agreed, the SVT cams are not the most ideal for forced induction.

In reply to:

really? so your saying a closed loop system will somehow bleed off line pressure ?? Your logic escapes me on this? Does your SF setup somehow loose internal pressure when your shifting or at idle ??


No, he is referring to losses due to fluid flow in pipes, a simple fluid mechanics principle. Its too bad logic escapes you (your words, not mine)

In reply to:

mine doesn't spoll time is spool time and a TT needs far less time to spool but a single turob, if trimmed out right, should not need more then a fraction of a sec to bring the system up to full boost once it's been charged already..


On a small displacement engine like the duratech, I highly doubt the spool time is much different from a BB T28 to twin T03s, in fact, unless the T03s have really small turbine housings, then I'm betting they would take longer to spool (not to mention that normal size T03s would be capable of supporting waaay more power than the block or con rods or pistons could support, and possibly the crank)

In reply to:

a racial/nationailty slur how quaint.


Wow, I wasn't aware that Canadian was now its own race, I was always under the impression that Canadians, like the British were lumped in with the rest of us white folk . . .

In reply to:

My comment on the Turbo was aimed at seeing the real numbers for the base kit offered not the upgraded kit dyno..


Again, there is no base/upgraded kit. The std. kit includes the BB T28.

In reply to:

Speaking of which I saw no mention of how they plan to control pres drop across the turbo oiling system? have they valved the line or are they letting it free flow? if so do they have numbers on the oil press drop in the engine when the turbo is on the engine ??


Woohoo, a real, legitimate question, I've been waiting for one of these
Of course, since I am not involved in the design of the kit, I cannot say for sure what method they have chosen to regulate the oil feed to the turbo, BUT I do know that there are a myriad of very simple and effective ways of throttling fluid flow, and because of this I have little concern over it.

In reply to:

sorry, but until the TT is ready , NOTHING will be released about it, except what I may use as a comparison point..


How unfair! you can use it as a comparison point, but I can't? I know nothing at all about it, quite unfair To be honest, I find it hard to believe you have done more than think about what parts you would like to use on the kit, and especially hard to believe that you would have started attempting to package any of the major components yet.

In reply to:

and why am I going to tell you about my 'custom' turbos? it took me along time to souce, aquire and work with the manufacture to get these.


So, you are using completely custom, one-off turbos? Anyway, I figured you might want to give people a reason to wait for the kit you say is superior to the kit already in discussion, but that's up to you.

In reply to:

if you looking for info on our kits contact Performance Fords or look to thier website or ours for specific pics/details of some of the kits we've done.


I did look, unfortunately, all I could find were "coming soon" comments on everything, and on your site, the Coming Soon for the zetec kit had a pretty old date, IIRC. I was really hoping to see some detail on the kits you said you have done, and the turbos you use. Oh, all I found on turbos, was standard T03 center sections for sale (btw, what do you charge for the center sections? I may need a pair of them sometime in the near future) and some rebuild kits, also for std T03s.






Balance is the Key. rarasvt@comcast.net
#425082 09/06/02 04:31 AM
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321 was used because it was pretty much the same price as 316, the initial choice of metals.

Originally posted by PPC-Racing:

the water/air IC is an odd chioce given the very low boost levels your working at, adding more complexity to a design is a Jr. Eng. students folly. a simple air/air IC will do the same job with less parts to go worng.


You're kidding, right? Try preaching that to OEM's that use water/air for intercooling. Air/water is cheaper, just as effective for cooling, and there is a VERY short path between the turbo and the TB.

Originally posted by PPC-Racing:

Personal thoughts..

It nice that your building kits and offering up solutions to power up the duratec.. but in the end, your overbuilding your way out of exsistence..


Oh, and twin turbo isn't "overbuilding" ?

Originally posted by PPC-Racing:

with My TT kit the first thing I will reccomend for those that wish to run over 7 psi on an SVT is to change out the slugs for lower compression. I've really targeted the standard 24V with my kit as it is more boost friendly.



So, in the end, your kit will be cheaper?

Originally posted by PPC-Racing:

Then the NA specific SVT setup. Even the bump sticks overlap too much on an SVT for proper boosting.




Umm.... We are seeing the SVT cams are actually better than the non-SVT ones. SVT cams, by far, wouldn't beconsidered "radical" cams.

If we are having a hard enough time selling just this "simple" kit, what makes you think there is a market for something that will cost more, and be more of a pain to install? That's going to be fun jamming 2 turbo's under that hood without having long tubes going to them from the headers.

If it seems like I am slamming your "proposed kit", well maybe I am. Tit for tat.


-Auto Makor- -Experimentor -Station Wagonor- -Computerizor- I have a foot that is bigger than a foot. SuperChipFOR SALE
#425083 09/06/02 03:58 PM
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How can it be much cheaper when there will be two turbos and housings to pay for? Even factoring that the eManage can be had for less money and you can fabricate your own harnesses, the software and data cable are at least $100 more, so $400 is not too far off. I can't stay silent any longer on this post either.
The twin turbo set-up just has more strikes against it than for it. I have looked at these cars longingly for four years trying to determine if a twin would work. You might fit it, but then you would GREATLY decrease the life of the components that are located near the turbos, such as the plastic cooling fans and wiring harnesses in back of the engine. The heat would be very high, and since you have two turbos you will have to locate at least one of them close to this stuff.
Ok, wrap them to protect the surroundings and then you have higher operating temperatures on the turbo and its piping than it would normally see. That means even if it is still in the operating temperature range of a one of the other stainless steels, it will still be HIGH in that range and the material will degrade faster with the higher kinetics. This alone is a good reason to use the better alloy so that it will indeed last a long time without eating away at all the metal. Think of it this way, annealing a piece metal is can be accomplished by running it at 2/3 the melting point for some fixed time period. This much heat gives you enough energy to allow a short time for kinetic processes to occur. What is the melting point of these steels? Take 2/3 of it and then make sure your operating temperature range is less. That is a good enough check as a rule of thumb without doing any significant research on the alloys.
That is unless you want your kit to 'just outlast the warranty period'. Or perhaps the kit may fall into the 'No Warranty' category?

Besides, when your kit is running and you have measured its power, then compare costs/benefits. People will listen and if it is better they will buy it. Your ideas/kit may well be highly competitive, so don't take it as a bashing on your non-existing kit.
As of now, you don't have a kit, which makes any 'working' kit BETTER, overbuilt or not.

One other thing, you use the emanage on the Zetecs? I would like to see that. I know for a fact that the emanage was only released to the use at the end of last year. The emanage was available in Japan, but the software was all in japanese before that. It also does NOT, I repeat NOT support the standard Ford ignition system used on the duratecs or zetecs. So what did you use it for, A/F control only? What about the cost of ignition timing control? If you were tuning this kit before the US version of the software was released, do you read Japanese? If not, did you design and tune 'many' Zetec kits with it in just the last 6 months? I would like to see that info as well. Again, not saying you didn't do it but I would be surprised at your resourcefullness and your... Should I say "energy" in producing all those kits in such a short time.

Feel free to square me away if you have the answers to all these questions as I am not 'bashing' just voicing my thoughts in the form of questions.

warmonger


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#425084 09/06/02 04:38 PM
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Dang - Rara, Chris...blow on your fingers! They're getting hot!!
BTW, good explainations from both of you. Thank you both for being calm and rational. That's how I like to see discussions go!


Derek Scion xB 5-spd Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT Please share the road with cyclists.
#425085 09/06/02 05:26 PM
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and now that he's been properly disputed he will not likely return......how unfair.


'98 Silver Frost SVT - #2089/6535 Some intake stuff, exhaust stuff, suspension stuff
#425086 09/07/02 01:31 AM
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Originally posted by Cathode:
and now that he's been properly disputed he will not likely return......how unfair.


He disputed all my stuff and I'm still here.


-Auto Makor- -Experimentor -Station Wagonor- -Computerizor- I have a foot that is bigger than a foot. SuperChipFOR SALE
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