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#425057 09/03/02 03:26 AM
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I can vouch for the turbo being worth the money. My car is so fun to drive now and noone expects this car to run like it does. It makes for alot of jaw dropping looks from people that thought they would make easy work of the 170hp stock Cougar performance #'s.

#425058 09/03/02 04:49 PM
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Personally I have to agree.. that this kits price is refected in its products and the people who have designed it. A friend of mind has a Nissan Nx2000, up until the yr or so there has not been a kit for that vehicle, there is ones for the sentra etc. but the application would not fit due the design of the vehicle. It took him 3yrs to finally build a kit on his own and close to 8000G, the easiest part was replicating the kits online etc. The hard part is to have someone who understands the vehicle and who can troubleshoot and tune the vehicle. So IMHO when you dish out the cash for this SF kit.. at least you know what your getting. Which is more that what I can if you get one online like a greddy etc.. with no tuning.

and every good tuner knows he who makes the most out of what you gots.. wins.


Borla exhaust, Custom intake, KVR Cross drilled rotors, Mil Eliminators, Diablo chip, OMP Strut bar, Urethane motor mount insert, Full rear urethane suspension inserts.
#425059 09/04/02 06:17 PM
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Originally posted by Keyser:
Chi-town
The headers alone which are completely stainless mandrel are over a grand. You will be hard pressed to find anyone using 321 stainless in their kit. The turbo is a dual ball bearing T28. Ball bearings are a $500 option on top of the cost of the turbo. The kit you see is most likely a T3 which is 3 to 4 hundred retail and is mild steel tubing.


I'm new but I had to jump in on this as I see some serious design flaws, ( I am building a TT kit for the duratec so this may come across as a slam but it's direct questions to the builders of the product and the chioces they've made)

I build kits for a few cars, in fact I have a nice BIG turbo on my supra, at peak boost of 16 psi, with my foot pushing the go pedal through the firewall I can just reash 1480F on the manifold.. now I don't know where your boys get thier metal info from but 321 is good for sustained use at 1850F and 304 is good to 1400F. I also don't know about your welders but I'm sure you've been told that mixing very different alloys like 321 and 304 is not a good idea as even TIG welds will be compromised. 321 is vastly overkill and silly, the reason you don't see people using it is becuse it's not required. my kits are all 316 which is good to 1700F sustained, however I also have the option of using 309, 310 and 421 alloys as well, all are 5x easier to work with and take manderl bending much easier.. I'm sure that $1000 is becuse you've got to send your 321 sent out to be done somewhere on the coast.

the water/air IC is an odd chioce given the very low boost levels your working at, adding more complexity to a design is a Jr. Eng. students folly. a simple air/air IC will do the same job with less parts to go worng.

I noticed the dyno info was done with the upgraded BB T28, not the bushing model. I'd like to see those numbers..

E manage is overkill, nice, but over kill, I use that in my full race kits for 400hp zetecs. Thier are better products for the boost level your working with.

Overall I don't see $5000 US in cost.. even with the extra T03 (new) and extra wastegate I can project @ the same price Canadian.

Personal thoughts..

It nice that your building kits and offering up solutions to power up the duratec.. but in the end, your overbuilding your way out of exsistence..





#425060 09/04/02 06:27 PM
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interesting, im sure this will stir up some discussion. btw, will your TT kit for the duratec go into production?


Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
#425061 09/04/02 08:24 PM
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Yes, the TT will go into production and be sold through Performance Fords.

I've been in discussion with SF on a different board for a week or so discussing the merits, (or issues ), with TT vs. T, but this is the first time I've actually seen a parts listing.


#425062 09/04/02 08:34 PM
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good deal...any ideas of what the TT setup will cost?


Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
#425063 09/04/02 09:17 PM
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PPC Racing-

Either you have not looked under the hood of one of our cars or are just talking out your proverbial behind...

A water to air intercooler was needed to put boost on the high compression engine and choosen over a air to air unit becasue of size, effeciency and pipe routing. (BTW 9-10psi on 10.25CR is NOT low! I don't know where you learned math; must be those conversion rates?)
Routing the piping to the front of the car for an air to air unit would add lag time to the turbo and drop significantly more psi from the turbo to the TB. This would make the turbo have to spin faster just to achieve the same psi level which in turn would add a substancial amount of extra heat to the incoming air temp. That's 3 strikes against it right off the bat!

The E-manage is overkill? For ~$400 total for all the tuning capabilities it offers that is a great choice and price. More is needed than simple A/F tuning. Please explain this statement if possible.

The turbo choice is fair. Ball bearings were chosen to help eliminate lag and increase longevity of the turbo due to the exceptionally high heat work environment. Yes they could have used a lesser turbo and could "possibly" offer one in the kit I suppose.
They may have more info on why it was chosen over other units.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#425064 09/04/02 10:08 PM
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wow, Mr. aggressive comes out of the wood work, nice attitude bub.

In reply to:

"Either you have not looked under the hood of one of our cars or are just talking out your proverbial behind..."


I'll answer this once then don't talk to me again, people with attitudes like yours I can do without.

In reply to:

A water to air intercooler was needed to put boost on the high compression engine and choosen over a air to air unit becasue of size, effeciency and pipe routing. (BTW 9-10psi on 10.25CR is NOT low!


So you've chosen to run at MAX tunnable settings on an SVT and to reduce the Pre-det you've used a complex, ( relative to an air-air IC), system to do it. instead of simply lowering the compression and running an air/air IC. There's a reason why no one but draggers use air/water system. It's not nearly as reliable as air/air IC.

with My TT kit the first thing I will reccomend for those that wish to run over 7 psi on an SVT is to change out the slugs for lower compression. I've really targeted the standard 24V with my kit as it is more boost friendly. Then the NA specific SVT setup. Even the bump sticks overlap too much on an SVT for proper boosting.

In reply to:

Routing the piping to the front of the car for an air to air unit would add lag time to the turbo and drop significantly more psi from the turbo to the TB. This would make the turbo have to spin faster just to achieve the same psi level which in turn would add a substancial amount of extra heat to the incoming air temp. That's 3 strikes against it right off the bat!



really? so your saying a closed loop system will somehow bleed off line pressure ?? Your logic escapes me on this? Does your SF setup somehow loose internal pressure when your shifting or at idle ?? mine doesn't spoll time is spool time and a TT needs far less time to spool but a single turob, if trimmed out right, should not need more then a fraction of a sec to bring the system up to full boost once it's been charged already..


In reply to:

I don't know where you learned math; must be those conversion rates?)

a racial/nationailty slur how quaint.

In reply to:

The E-manage is overkill? For ~$400 total for all the tuning capabilities it offers that is a great choice and price. More is needed than simple A/F tuning. Please explain this statement if possible.



If your paying $400 us for the E-manage and the harnesses and SW then no wonder your charging $5k for it.. I can be had for less then that Candian coinage.. The statment was made as a cost effectness issue not a product complaint, as I stated I use the same product in my zetec race kit. but their are more fiscally viable alternatives to a $400 unit.


My comment on the Turbo was aimed at seeing the real numbers for the base kit offered not the upgraded kit dyno.. that's my comment, personally I find the custom turbo's I use to last as long and run cooler then a BB turbo. Speaking of which I saw no mention of how they plan to control pres drop across the turbo oiling system? have they valved the line or are they letting it free flow? if so do they have numbers on the oil press drop in the engine when the turbo is on the engine ??








#425065 09/05/02 02:58 AM
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So, uh, just out of curiosity, how far along are you on this twin turbo kit? and, do you have any photos/specs/details of the other kits you have said you've done?

oh, one last thing, what turbos do you plan to use for a TT duratech?


Balance is the Key. rarasvt@comcast.net
#425066 09/05/02 03:06 AM
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sorry, but until the TT is ready , NOTHING will be released about it, except what I may use as a comparison point..

You'll see the zetec turbo in a few short weeks.

and why am I going to tell you about my 'custom' turbos? it took me along time to souce, aquire and work with the manufacture to get these.

if you looking for info on our kits contact Performance Fords or look to thier website or ours for specific pics/details of some of the kits we've done.

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