Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications General Mods KEM Module Map

I just went out with my trusty VOM and made the following map for the KEM:

O/W = 12Vc
Y/Pu = Unlock, NL
W between 2 Y/Yu = Lock Driverdoor NL
2nd Y/Pu = Lock All NL

2nd connector

BK/R = Headlights on, NH
BLU/O = Trunk relay, NL
BK/W = Horn, NH

Hope that helps everyone who is looking at the module, my next project is to get the doors to lock when starting the car.

If any questions, please ask!

So, if anyone wanted the horn to shutup, then it looks pretty straight-forward that you could disconnect/cut/remove (I am not familiar with the connector) the horn relay and run it to a source that will keep it high?

Wait.. that would disable your horn, all the time, right?
shoot.. too early.. no breakfast.. hard to keep the mind on VS.net/VC#/AND cars... you lose your train-of-thought..

Cutting the lead from the KEM to your horn shouldn't make the horn totally inoperative, since there's a separate relay for that. What I'm wondering is why the hell my headlights don't flash when locked, because everyone else's seem to. Oh well...just a little more work I guess.

Your lights do work... stand at the rear of your car, and lock your car (with your RKE) multiple times in a row, as fast as it will let you.. You will notice that each time your lights flash a LITTLE brighter..

I think the problem stems from insufficient voltage from the KEM to trigger the lights... after multiple times the lights have sufficiently "heated up" and are warm so they light more(???)

if you could have the light flash relay of the KEM trigger a relay that you added (this relay engaging the FULL 12V battery to your lights) they would be brighter, I would imagine..


Just a thought...

Ray

Well.. Davo, the only thing that made me think that cutting the lead would be a bad idea is.. (maybe I am interpreting this wrong, Matt..)

The little NH next to the horn statement is read (to me) Normally High. When referincing an IC normally high is a positive voltage (ususally +5V, but could be anything, I guess). If you cut that lead, and it is EXPECTING a high when not engaged, then the cut will be considered a low.. (i.e. 0V)

wouldn't that make the horn go off continuously?)

Just raking my brain, now...

Ray

ok, just to clear up a few things,

Cutting the lead to the horn WILL stop the horn from being honked by the KEM, the horn will still work normally. the problem is that the lead going to the KEM is HOT!!! That's what Normaly High means, The lead going in to the KEM is being grounded by the KEM to activate, as opposed to a Normaly Low menas the KEM puts 12V to the line to activate it.

So, you can just cut the horn wire, but make sure you tape up the end of the wire going TO the module, not the remaining wire ON the module.

Also, I noticed when I mapped it that the reason the lights flash so quickly, is that it is a VERY short Grounding pulse (lights are also a NH cuircuit)and they barely flash. I am working on a couple of cuircuits to both make the doors lock when you turn on the car (like my explorer does) and make the lihgts flash longer, should have something worked up this weekend.

Hope that cleared some of that up.