Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications General Mods How to install a Dual Mode Damper

this weekend I am planning on installing the official SZ02 Dual Mode Damper.

I understand the tooling I will need is basically a harmonic balancer puller and a tool to move the tensioner pulley to get the belt on and off. (BTW I did buy a new belt) For the instalation, what is the "prefered" method of instalation?

Are there any tips for the instalation, like something special I can do to help it go on easier?

I heard a rumor that the mounting bolt for the pulley needs to be changed when a new damper is installed. Is this true? Is this bolt a special bolt that is specific to the duratech (if so does anyone happen to have the part number for it) or is it a standard SAE or Metric bolt (What is the size, length and grade I need)?

Thank You
Jason

Yes you will need a new bolt (F5RZ-6A340-B) and a new seal (F5AZ-6700-A) is nice too.

The bolt takes an 18mm socket.

It's really as straight forward as it looks.

Follow the torque specs and you're done.

If you don't have a pulley installer tool, pick up a metric bolt with the matching pitch that's a little longer than stock at NAPA; in my experience, the only place that will reliably have it (metric is the main problem). I got the longest and second longest ones. What you'll be doing is threading the NAPA bolt into the crank and using the stock washer and nut to pull the pulley onto the crank far enough so that you can use the stock bolt to finish the job. Heat alone didn't work for me, and you can't stick the DMD in the oven because of the rubber.

If you're using a jaw puller like I did, reinsert the old bolt after removing the washer. This will prevent the puller from damaging the threads in the crank and making this job a hundred times harder than it necessary. As for the bolt itself, it's torque-to-yield, so it needs replacing. Doubt your local dealer will have it in stock, so plan on a couple days to order it.

I spent several days stuck at various stages of installation because I didn't know the above information. Hope you fare better. It's worth it in the end though.

You will also need the following tools:
- A 10mm wrench or socket/ratchet for removing the splash shield from the right front tire.
- A breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt tension (it's on there pretty tight).
- A tool to hold the crankshaft pulley as you try to loosen the bolt tension and also when you install and tighten the NEW bolt. I used the setup that is displayed in edorfox's excellent pictorial. WARNING: You don't want to turn the pulley in the counter-clockwise direction. According to the Haynes manual, you can bind up the timing chain. Also, you don't want to quickly turn the pulley in a clockwise direction either, since it is possible (although doubtful) to start the engine that way.
- An installer tool. I used an M12 (width) x1.5 (thread) x90mm (length) bolt that I bought at Yates/Carquest ($2.60). I used it in conjunction with the old crankshaft pulley washer and a set of 1/2"-drive sockets. Here is a picture of what I am talking about.
- A torque wrench that will be able to apply 35-90 ft-lb of torque.
- Extensions for the breaker bar and torque wrench. I believe that I used a 10".
- A jack and jackstand to support the car.
- High-temperature RTV sealant for the crankshaft pulley keyway.

Yes, the crankshaft pulley bolt is a torque-to-yield (TTY) bolt, which means that it is one-time use only.

The part # for the crankshaft pulley bolt is F5RZ-6A340-B ($3.10 @ dealer) and the size is M12x1.5.

The torqueing procedure for the NEW crankshaft pulley bolt is as follows:
- Tighten bolt to 120 N-m (89 ft-lb)
- Loosen bolt a minimum of one full turn
- Tighten bolt to 47-53 N-m (35-39 ft-lb)
- Rotate bolt an additional 85-95 degrees

The part # for the crankshaft pulley washer is F5RZ-6378-A ($4.29 @ dealer)(if you decide to get a new one).

Some additional tips:
- If you have MTX (manual transmission), put it in the highest gear and apply the emergency brake.
- Caution: Don't use a rubber mallet and wood block to pound the DMD on. This can damage your crankshaft internally.
- After loosening the old crankshaft pulley bolt, you don't need to take it out (just yet). You can use it, as louisw says, as a base for the puller to "push" against. This will protect the threads in your crankshaft pulley.
- FYI: It took me about 3.5-4 hours total, but an hour was spent searching for the installer bolt that I didn't realize I needed. I had to go to four different auto supply stores before I found it. I also took my time on this, since I am not a mechanic and it was the first time that I had done any kind of work on the engine.
- I also ended up breaking a 3/8"-extension when trying to loosen the old crankshaft pulley bolt. It was probably because it was a cheap one that I bought about 15 years ago.

Another good website for helping to install the DMD (even though it is about installing a UDP) is Lance Kinley's How to install an Underdrive Pulley (UDP).

Hope this helps.

Wow, copy that write up into the mods section if it isn't already, even with the UDP write up so people know it's very similar.

Torque to Yeild, POOP. Well, my local dealer doesn't have squat for stock so I guess I'll have to order one. I guess I'll have to wait.

Thanks for all the input though.

I totaly agree with bnoon... G Pappas write up should TOTALY be in the mods section considering it's basicaly a step by step process of how to do it. Maybe a moderator could G Pappas to do a cleaner instruction article to be placed in that section.

Agree with all Good write-up and I did samething as louisw using a longer bolt to help pull the DMD into place.

Paul
If you have a 98 built 7/97 as mine and replacing the serpentine, ask the parts guy for one from a 97 not 98 about foot shorter??????? It fits.

Now posted to the howtos!

-Lance

Hey Lance, is there a FAQ somewhere for which serpentine belt to use for what year? The reason I ask is that in 95, there was a TSB concerning water being splashed up into the serpentine belt, causing a loss of power steering and alternator functions for brief periods of time. This TSB consisted of an altered length serpentine belt, splash shield, and (IIRC), an altered crank pulley and idler. Given that the crank pulley and idler were altered from stock, would it be possible to install a DMD on my 95, which has had this TSB fix? The fix did cure the belt slippage problem.