Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance 65mm TB help......Aussie?

I took care of the gap above the TB, where the EGR passage is exposed nicely. I made a spacer plate that mirrored the gasket out of some thin sheet steel. Works Great.

Then I began to work on the throttle cable issue. I hadn't yet read Demon's post, obviously, and did not immediately fip the linkage 180 deg. I tried to make it work with the cable assembly in its original confguration. You could imgine that the cable is nowhere near long enough to extend behind, then up and over the plastic seat assembly to sit in that position. So I began to cut down the plastic hoping that I could make it work. I eventually cut the plastic down enough to seat the cable and had a nice, tight cable, but when I tried it out....uh oh

I cut too much of the plastic seat assembly off, effectively cutting down the path of travel for the cable and taking away the necessary leverage to create WOT. Follow me? The TB would only open about half way and pulling further on the cable would do nothing more.

So.... I didn't get it on and I probaby hacked it up too much to salvage, so back to the 60 for now. I may get another one and flip linkage this time if I can't come up with some way to make this one work. And since I was in a machining mood I 'optimized' the SVT TB while it was out.

This gives you an idea of what I was trying to do, this picture is what convinced me I could get it to work this way (this someone's 70mm install from coldair):

I have really thought about doing this But, Could Demon Please define: How many other mods are required to make this one work?

Dandridge-

"Shim the accelerator cable" - I used 2 hard rubber spacers at the pedal myself.

yankeyspeed-

I personally would not openly recommend it to anyone.
Definitely not any non-SVT 2.5L (not nearly enough breathing ability) and like I've said before; "All but the top level modified 2.5L SVT's."
A/F tunability is a must.

I personally showed losses with the 65mm until I added my last round of mods (Headers, EH'd UIM, LIM mods)

I think a highly modified SVT (intake, exhaust, Y, chip, MAF, DH UIM, larger LIM) could show gains with A/F tuning. Moderately modified or under and this will lose power.
Oh the car will definitely feel a lot stronger due to the larger TB, but it really won't be. Last summer I swore up and down it made me feel faster until I tested it and saw it didn't.

After the last round of mods I started with the optimized 65mm on and then went back to the optimized 60mm to test it and I my times slowed down noticeably. I quickly went back to the 65mm & it picked up immediately. It continued to get a little better every day after. I'm sticking with the 65mm now.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

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Dandridge-

"Shim the accelerator cable" - I used 2 hard rubber spacers at the pedal myself.

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Oh, that's what shim means.
I guess if you got it on there, you know what it takes.

Sorry I didn't see this earlier, but yes, DemonSVT basically outlined what you have to do to make it work.

You MUST remove the butterfly, remove the TPS, rotate another 180°, cut off the tab on the throttle cam that now interferes with the TB flange, reinsert the butterlfy and then reinstall the TPS.

This is the CORRECT way to do it.

Also optimising the TB at this time would be ideal.

thanks....I'm about to start the TB install 'part II' where I will attempt this 'more accepted' method . My concern now is making a stop tab...I see that the original one needs to be removed and it seems that a new one that stops movement at the correct position will somehow have to be improvised. Any suggestions?