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Originally posted by Chris Hightower:
-Oh, and no jackshaft.
 Doh! 
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Originally posted by Chris Hightower: -The turbo will make good boost around 2300RPM. -The Duratec doesn't start making power till around 3200 (good power anyway)
hmm, so would this be a good reason to remove the secondaries?
Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE 2002 Black Mazda MP5 Latest mods: sho shop off road y-pipe
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I've been debating this a lot. The secondaries are there so that a smaller engine can make more torque, correct? Well, w/ a 3.0L and turbo, you probably wouldn't need them at all. Get the ECM tuned so that airflow and fuel flow are constant, get it to think that the secondaries don't even exist. Will the secondaries screw w/ the turbo at all? (Less than if they weren't there?)
ChickenhawkRacing@hotmail.com 1998: #4415/6535 mods: Sheet metal screws in rear chrome strip Four wobbly corners "Hey, do you like apples?" "Well, yeah." "Well, I got her number, how do you like them apples?"
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This has been debated quite a bit. I can tell you that the secondaries are needed for N/A engines at lower RPM's. The reason for this is the "swirling" or tumbling effect. If you have the secondaries open, or removed, the air wants to travel through the larger chamber and not through the primary. Now, some of it does go in the primary, but not as much as if the secondaries where closed. Since there is not much air to swirl with the fuel, it doesn't mix properly. The fuel isn't as suspended in the air. This will cause the engine to bog a little when you have a WOT condition at low RPM's, then it picks back up around 3000RPM or so.
However, if you have a turbocharger shoving more air into the primary and secondary runners even at low RPM's it might be enough to properly swirl the fuel/air with the secondaries open/removed.
Funny thing is, the SVT owner that is getting the first kit put on is itching to remove his secondaries. The kit will be developed with the secondaries in place for consistant results. Then later, we will remove them and see what happens.
-Chris
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Chris I'm aware all along that you've been working on a turbo, and I understand the physics behind it and possibly what could be expected of a turbo, what I don't understand is deposits need to made now even though there hasn't been any testing or dyno proof done with the prototype. The reason I ask, I may be very interested but I'm not just ready to dump some mulla (ha-y-n for cash) on a kit I have no idea what to expect besides the fact it'll be more HP. I guess the reason I ask is because I'm a Vortech distributor, I know what to expect from that kit (problems maybe  ), and I would sure hate to spend a $1000-1500 more than what I can get the Vortech for if the difference isn't substantial.....I guess some better figures even hp/tq #'s would be a big selling point...Aloha 
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How much do we have to deposit to be considered and when is the remaining balance to be due by? If there are complications in labor (of the turbo) will we be reimbursed? TIA, hawk
ChickenhawkRacing@hotmail.com 1998: #4415/6535 mods: Sheet metal screws in rear chrome strip Four wobbly corners "Hey, do you like apples?" "Well, yeah." "Well, I got her number, how do you like them apples?"
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All questions about deposit, price, etc. will be answered after this coming Saturday (1-26). I will also have a list of items required to complete the kit, and component pricing. We will also start taking deposits.
-Chris
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correct me if I'm wrong, but a s/c is real hard on con rods and whatever bearings are on the shaft it's belted to. Weak points on small engines. A turbo is nfg for a big motor but great on small ones that breath fast. So there is a bias towards s/c on v8's (4 bolt mains at least, if screw impellers) and t/c's on 4&6's. Make any sense?
98 CSVT, basic mod's, my slowest car yet but still faster than the wife's Talon Tsi AWD. Not by much, though. Now if I could get the back wheels to do something....
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Originally posted by jaxter: correct me if I'm wrong, but a s/c is real hard on con rods and whatever bearings are on the shaft it's belted to. Weak points on small engines. A turbo is nfg for a big motor but great on small ones that breath fast. So there is a bias towards s/c on v8's (4 bolt mains at least, if screw impellers) and t/c's on 4&6's. Make any sense? This is kind of true. For engines that build torque at lower RPM (OHV V8's) a supercharger would be good. With larger displacement it takes a larger turbo to "fill in" that space with boost. With a roots supercharger you get more positive displacement with larger rotored supercharger. Both cases can be argued the other way around, but there aren't too many NHRA dragsters out there with turbos. They're out there though. -Chris
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Originally posted by SILVA BULLITT: I may be very interested but I'm not just ready to dump some mulla (ha-y-n for cash) on a kit I have no idea what to expect besides the fact it'll be more HP......I guess some better figures even hp/tq #'s would be a big selling point...Aloha I strongly agree with with this because i am going to have 5 thousand dollars to mod my car with and i would love a turobcharger for it but i really do not want to throw it all into one blindly. If i had some idea of what i would get i would be a lot more willing to put money down.
2000 Svt kkm intake w/heat shield, custom MAF,under-drive pulleys,braided brake hoses,carbon fiber brake pads,painted calibers,17x7 borbet t's with g-force tires,bat euro struts,eibach pro-kit,custom burned superchip,sho offroad y-pipe, bassani exhaust with high flow cat,formula one tint,kenwood excelon cd/mp3,mb quart compents w/mtx amp,b & m short shifter, carbon fiber pedals,hyper-bright bulbs,painted oval ring and many mods to come.
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