Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction S/C PLUS 3.0L

HOW CAN YOU LOWER THE COMPERSION FOR THE 3.0L'S 11.0 BACK DOWN TO RUN A VORTECH S/C ASWELL FIND A WAY!!

Use a complete 3L (10:1 CR) Not the 2.5/3L hybrid...

Jay, could you please turn the caps lock off?

My plan exactly. I just gotta get around to chopping the water pump end off the sVT cams!

And paying for the short block! Heheheheheheh... I know, I know, Saturday.

Other things on the list are: Powder coating engine/supercharger parts, Apexi S-AFC install prior to the engine swap, put the 3 liter together, find a way to put 315/30/17s on the front to get the power to the ground... there's a ton to do... See you guys Spring Zing 2010.

Have you put on the calandar which day we're going to tear into this beast? You have all of the major parts... time's a wasting!!!

if you can find out a way to put 315/30/17s on, i wanna how-to!!

Also, dont forget, you might want to come up with an adjustable cam gear for the exhaust cams, to kill some of that overlap that the SVT cams(breat N/A cams.. crappy{ok not crappy, but not ideal} setup for forced induction...)add in....(if youre gonna go through all that trouble of hacking up some SVT cams to put in a 3.0 Block)

Just machine the 2.5L heads to look more like the 3L head. I have already done this to my cylinder heads and I calculate a reduction in compression. I went for about 10.5:1 If you wanted you could safely go down to the 10:1 that is the same as the 3L. I've already examined both heads in detail and they are from the same casting with some minor changes. The 3L chambers are just a little bigger around the valves (unshrouded) and that gives them the proper compression ratio. It took all of 45 minutes to machine my heads with a carbide bit and die grinder. Then I finished with a light hand sanding to get the same finish.

Same benefits of the 3.0 heads, but with waterpump and cams all stock.

Of course if you don't trust what I did, I do have two brand new 3L heads, cams, and valvetrain components MINUS the valves, for sale.
I might even give up the the timing chains, sprockets, guides, oil pan, valve covers, etc. for one LOW price.
I will swear to the fact that these engine parts have almost no miles on them.

warmonger

Actually, I was thinking of welding an aluminum bead in between the intake and exhaust valves and reshape it a bit to accomplish a similar effect much easier. It's what some of the touring cars did to redirect flow at higher RPMs.

warmonger, have you had the heads sonic checked before and after your metal removal? I was told that the water jackets are different and there isn't enough material to safely remove in those areas on the 2.5 heads. I was going to do the same thing to mine, but then ended up just removing the sharp edges and unshrouding the valves a little bit instead.