Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec Parts Order List, is this all?

The intake gaskets and such I can see skimping on, since they're pretty easily changed. Stick with new exhaust manifold gaskets though since it's minimum of four hours to change them out for someone that hasn't done it before. Those exhaust manifolds are a biaaaaaaatch the first couple of times.

The PCV breather is the oval-ish black box on the top of the block, between the heads.

Check your installation manuals to see where the main seals are. The front one goes in the front "snout" hole in the timing cover. The rear one presses into the block from the back side.

The crank bushing should be cut down flush with the crank piece surrounding the bushing. Measure your clearance in your MTX to be sure.

well I can think of a couple of things.

1) either custom fit or get a new alternator holder there different from pre 98 to post so you will have to either custom fit yours or just get a post 98 one.

2) also the engine mount on the passenger side the metal holder that the spark wires clamp on to, uses different bolts from pre to post that get put in on the block. sence the 3.0 is post you will need these post 98 bolts yours are too thick if I remember correctly.
(was that confusing?)

I think that it is but I will try to remember it all. will post if I can think of more.

Micah

Are you going to put 3L valves in?

I would look into getting an SVT radiator too. The standard rad will not cool everything down as well. Look at it this way....do you really want to spend all this time and money to have your nice new engine boil????

I don't that's why I'm getting one from Bill J

That might be a possibility. If I can afford to have a machine shop enlarge the ports to match the 3L valves, I might do that. But 24 new valves, valve springs, and valve seals will cost over $200...

Anyone think I should replace the wires too? I just got the Taylor wires about 1.5 years ago, and I think they have a lifetime warranty or something? I'd like to get the Ford Racing 9mm wires if I replace them.

You should be OK on the knock sensor, unless you are using the 3L PCM and harness. If not, just re-use the one from the old engine. The block will require re-tapping for the 2.5 KS, as the 3.0 one is quite different.

2.5 KS: Looks sort of like the ECT, plastic body and metal "cap" rolled on. The nipple on the cap is threaded and goes directly into the block. The plastic body is a male connector on the end.
3.0 KS: Looks like a doughnut and a screw goes through it to secure it to the block. It has a small wiring harness that has a female connector. The mounting screw is smaller for the 3.0, thu the need to retap the 3L block if you use the 2.5 sensor.

The Knock Sensor difference between the 2.5 and the 3.0 is one of those little bugger things that makes doing this swap so much fun.

For the front lower control arms: When I called BAT a month ago, they were out of the old style and had no expectation of new stock. Seems their supplier noticed that BAT sold what they had really quick and wanted to up the price on them to match the demand. BAT said they were trying to find another source so they didn't have to bump the price to customers (otherwise they would be not much less than Ford OEM). Not sure if that's changed since then. SP Motorsports was also out of the old arms. Might be a Bill Jenkins item if that situation is the same.

Do you know what thread size I will need to retap the 3L block to?

12mm 1.75 pitch for the knock sensor. IIRC, use 11/32 drill bit size for the tap, but I'm not 100%. The '98-'99 3 liters are already this size as well.

Do I still need the cam retainer bolts if the cams are not to be take out of the heads?