Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec Parts Order List, is this all?

Do you think I've got everything, if not what else do I need?

Order the following from Bill Jenkins:
· SVT Throttle Body Gasket
· SVT Throttle Cable
· SVT Throttle Cable Bracket
· IAC Gasket
· EGR Gasket
· Upper Intake Manifold Gasket
· Lower Intake Manifold Gasket
· Fuel Injector O-Rings
· 2.5L Valve Cover Gaskets
· 2.5L Vale Seal (one intake, one exhaust)
· 2.5L Head Gaskets
· 2.5L Head Bolts
· Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
· O2 Sensors
· 2.5L Oil Pan Gasket
· Crank Pulley Bolt
· Crank Position Sensor
· Cam Position Sensor
· Knock Sensor
· A/C Hoses
· Wheel Bearings
· Intermediate Shaft Bearing

Order the following from local parts store:
· Starter
· Fuel Coupling Remover
· Engine Hoist
· Engine Stand
· Crank Pulley Puller

Order the following online:
· [BAT] Waterpump with Metal Impeller
· [BAT] Clutchmaster Stage 3 Clutch
· [BAT] Front Lower Control Arms
· [BAT] Dual Mode Damper
· [Corey] Koni Yellow Struts
· [Haines Motorsports, Inc] Quaife Limited Slip Differential

Thats Impellar (Metal Impala's are nice too though )

What year block did you get?

a paint job

It's a brand new 2001 block.

Well, paint job isn't part of the engine swap. The car will get a new paint job after I save up another $2500 after the swap.

hey. you are doing the 3.0l swap on a 95 contour! cool. i didn't know this was possible.

may be electric waterpump.

I'm using the SVT heads, so no need for electrical waterpump.

You might want to add the 3 front cover gaskets to your list. Also get a good amount of Permatex UltraBlack RTV for the block girdle. You will also need a few dabs of the same RTV for the front cover and valve cover.

Last thing to consider might be front and rear main seals.

A brand new short block should have a new rear main installed. You will need the timing cover seals as mentioned along with the front main seal (harmonic balancer seal).

Make sure to check to make sure they include the valve cover spark plug hole gaskets as my first set of valve cover gaskets came without them.

Cam retainer bolts. They're torque to yeild and snap off very, very easy. Hard bolt and soft metal head castings makes it a bit harder to drill it out and re-tap too.

Water crossover tube gasket ring. It's just a small rubber O-ring, but worth replacing because it can cause a major coolant leak if you rip the old brittle one.

Good time to change the PCV valve and breather too (I think the new short block comes with a breather IIRC though).

The fuel coupling tool and the balancer puller can be borrowed from AutoZone or just about any other parts store with a tool program if you want to save a couple of bucks.

Hoists can be expensive unless you plan on pulling a lot of engines too, they rent for $10-$20 a day at most rental shops.

That's all I can think of for now... Good luck!

Thanks for the info Brad, I know Bill P did quite a bit of work to the block already (I think he grinded the shaft for MTX-75 fittment but not absolutely sure if that's short enough). How do I know if he has the rear main, and front main seal installed already? I thought the breather goes on the head, is there another piece on the block?

The good news is my friend can borrow a hoist from his dad's friend, and his dad has an engine stand so I can work on the engine. So I save about $5-600 right there!

It sounds like everything has been covered, though I think some of it is not necessary since the block is new. Also things like the IAC gasket just don't go bad that often. Replace as necessary on a lot of those items. Mostly those things that will be hard to get to with the engine installed. Another thing, the exhaust manifold gaskets are just sheets of thin stainless steel...If you don't have any pitting in the old ones then maybe not worry about it, I didn't and mine were fine.
Good luck anyway,

warmonger