Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec 3.0 with svt heads

Hey anybody got any dyno's or estimates on the power output of the 3.0 block running the svt heads with the svt injectors.. basicly just switching the blocks? there is alot of talk on here about other injectors and all this.. but i want to know what the 3.0 will output with thes vt bit's and pieces.. Thanks if anyone has an idea

Ok i have found on bnoon's website that the output for a basic svt swap ranges from like 180 to 220 at the wheels??? thast a big range for basicly the same engine.. anyone got any ideas as to why? or this still a mystery?

In the sig...

Yeah, the idea is that we have all done little things differently. This gives rise to the variations in HP ranges. Take it for what it's worth. So far with just the block swap, SVT heads and stock injection systemt the power can be anywhere from 185wHP to 240wHP. Thought the highest is with fuel pressure adjusted.
The higher HP engines have taken the larger valves found in the 3L heads and stuck them into the 2.5 heads with appropriate porting and such. There are other factors, like the compression ratio as well.

warmonger

Basic SVT swap is the low end of the range listed on my site, on up to the higher end of heavily modded 3 liter SVT's at 240+. Basic block swap with factory everything else will be in the 180 area at the wheels depending on year and any tuning adjustments made.

Hmmm...What would a 3l with 3l heads, SVT Cams and Intake net? Are the SVT Heads that much better, or does the main increase come from the high (very) compression ratio?

This is the route I am heading with the addition of the 3.0 block! :p

If I knew then what I know now, I would definitely have used the 3L heads and 3L lower. Certainly a better option than the SVT heads (bigger valves, better flowing, compression that the PCM can handle). After all, those heads are designed to work with that block.

Just food for thought.

Here's an opinion for the archives... I know, its another Mamoth post (trademark).
I have finally decided to make a recommendation on this. I have done lots of research and work on this very subject, and I can make a reasonably educated guess as to what will give 200-230 HP to the wheels with minimal cost. Here follows the "Formula" that I think will work best.

-- 3L block.
-- SVT heads with the following:
1.) 3L valves at a minimum along with minor porting to smooth everything.
2.) VERY moderate to light porting of the primary intake runner from the upper intake manifold all the way down to the valve in the head.
3.) Heavy porting of the the secondary intake runner from the upper intake manifold all the way down to the valve.
4.) Small adjustment to the combustion chambers that will yield 10.5-10.8 compression ratio.
5.) Heavily ported exhaust ports and exhaust valve "bowl" reshaping.
Optional: You MIGHT be able to use the 32mm intake valves as your new exhaust valves along with appropriate porting (I'm checkin on this now). Either way, if you can find 32mm exhausts, then I think this along with the higher compression will yield GREAT results.

Exhaust:
--headers and y-pipe with a 180 degree bend such as MSDS.
--Gutted precats in factory manifolds (appropriately ported) and a better y-pipe or optimized factory y-pipe (like I have done).
-- Standard manifolds that are appropriately ported and the optimized factory y-pipe or a better y-pipe.
--2.5" custom catback exhaust.

With this you should be able to run the stock PCM with no problem. I HEAVILY modded my primary intake runners and with the open exhaust I ran into a lean low RPM condition. The pcm is more than capable of compensating for the extra airflow at high RPM.
With a tuning device such as the APEX SAFC, you can do the heavy porting and be able to tune the airflow with it.
If this new GReddy eManage piggy back air/fuel/spark management computer turns out to be a good product, then you can count on being able to compensate for any mods you do and should add it to the shopping list.

I am not against using the 3L heads, I just think that there is some nice benefits to higher compression for those not using a S/C or turbo, like very quick throttle response, and excellent low rpm torque.

warmonger

One thing Warmonger, intake valves are not designed for the much higher heat of the exhaust gas port. Swapping in the intake valves to the exhaust side will get you great performance for a while, but get you a set of burnt valves too. Better idea would be to spec out a custom set of valves or swap in another set of larger exhaust valves from another car.