Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec ?Help tracking down the stuttering problem....Long...

I've been following this thread closely as I also am irritated at the same stuttering my 2k seem to suffer, however, my MAF backing plate isn't riveted. It appears to be bonded somehow and given it's location, I bet it's bonded good! I bet I would break it before I got it to come off. I'm gonna have to wait for others to report results.

...Ed

Mine is an Aluminum maf housing.

Do the 2000 SVT's have a plastic maf?
If so, then you may not be able to do anything with it. Time to buy an APEX or a GReddy.

If you can pry it off, then you could superglue it back on later.

Oh well, I just wanted to update you guys.
My car is running very well at low rpm now, but at high rpm it is getting some pinging. This experiment has proven a lot, but in the end I will just be using my C&L MAF with the GReddy I think.

warmonger

Yeah, as I recall...all 2000's are plastic. I know CarDoc has been "messing" with MAF's for quite a while(not for the stuttering problem), there seems to be a split among the experimenters...some good performance and some worse & some total failures. I believe the stuttering will only be "totally" fixed with a Ford engineered recalibrated chip and I'm sure we all know when that will be!
Still, I await the outcome of whatever brave soul might be out there to try this on a stock setup.

...Ed

Hmmm, now that I have my MAF in my hand, I took the time to accurately measure it. First off, I thought they were 70mm...mine is easily 72mm at the narrowest point near the mixing tube. The measurement was made with a digital caliper using a sturdy paperboard template that was cut to sit down past the convergent point and taped together to produce a slight drag as it is inserted and removed from the bore. The measurement was actually more than 72mm, something like 72.23mm. What's up wit dat...do they subtract the mixing tube dimensions to achieve 70mm? Am I doing something wrong?

...Ed

Heheheheh, FYI, it's called a tamper resistant Torx bit. Nothing special, they're as readily available as regualar Torx bits are. Full set of the small ones are less than $10 in the Goodwrench brand. Also to note is that many MAFs have one of the Torx heads filled with plastic that will need to be scraped out or heated out before you can use the correct bit. JVT has a gutted MAF in the classifieds, or at least he did anyway. Might be worth it to someone not so mechanically able to do their own.

Funny how those 'Tamper Resistant' bits work!

It took me all of 5 minutes to pull 'em off with a pair of pliers. LOL

Then I looked in the box that my C&L maf came in, and they kindly included the correct 'tamper resistan' torx bit.

You know what they say, read the directions first!
:rolleyes:

warmonger

Warmonger (and anyone interested in this topic):

I used my security torx's and removed the module for my MAF and then I simply used a flat-head to remove the backplane on the sampling tube in the MAF (it came off very easily). I then normalized the intake set-up (non-oily/non-saturated K&N, stock svt air-box), pulled the 2 ECM fuses/replaced them, and drove around. Idle in neutral was a bit erratic at times, for a couple sessions, but I havnt had a problem since then -- runs fine. Driving when the engine is in open-loop/cold is still best results but when closed-loop/warm, the engine doesnt buck as badly -- It def. has improved. I am convinced I need the AFC or Greddy to tune-in the needed fuel at lower lvl rpms though to cure this completely. I would be very interested in seeing the results on other 2000/1999 svts/v6's with this problem. WarMonger, you have the 3.0 plus your fuel management and you appear to have cleared up your bucking problem. I think with these "modified" stock MAF's and the AFC/Greddy, the others with bucking can be cured too (looks pretty good). I'll update more as I find out more though my own trial-and-error. Thanks!

...BlackPantherSVT

How easy/hard was it to remove the backplate? I assume yours is plastic...did it seem brittle...would you think it could be restored safely? Do you have any way to see if yours is leaning out at heavy loading/WOT?

Thanks...Ed

EdorFox: I currently do not have an OBD-II diag-link to monitor ECM variables and sensors, so I cannot tell you if I am leaning out at the high-end. I know I have opened her up and not noticed anything audibly wrong at least. I can tell you that the backplane on the sampling tube is plastic and EASY to pry off, though it WILL break into pieces - its just glued on there anyway. I def. think a replacement backplane could be made and re-glued on there in case one was needed (altough it probally wouldnt look stock). I am currently testing the extent of the effect this has on my own vehicle. I def. need a OBD-II tool to see exactly what the hell is going on with this modification. Nothing bad noticable, and like I said it reduced the bucking.

AWESOME!!

You know, I had that bucking problem for close to a month before I started hitting on different ideas. I was DRIVEN MAN... it was like a monkey on my back. I am so glad to see that the situation for you 2000 SVT'rs is improving now as well.
My opinion on which fuel management system to get is split as follows:
For the money, the APEX is great because it has many tunable rpm points and a great display. (Plus some other little goodies).
If you plan on any serious modding beyond fuel control with the AFC you will have to get a chip.
Timing, etc.

The GReddy is cheaper up front, plus it is fully expandable later to the point where you may not ever need a chip. It is also set up to support a boost pressure sensor for forced induction, and supports two supplemental injectors for either forced induction or nitrous. Even fully decked out it is cheaper than the Apex and Chip combo.

The down side is that the GReddy is not yet 'proven in battle' (I'm working on that), whereas the chip with the Apex is a proven combo.

Obviously, you can see what choice my needs/desires pushed me towards.

Good luck and have fun shopping!

Warmonger