Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec 3.0 Question

Hey everyone, I have a 99 Svt and am getting ready to lay the cash down on a 3.0 block.. but here's my question. On a FAQ. Site about the 3.0 swap it says something about have to grind the crank to clear somethign in the tranny? Can anyone give me Some info on this.. Kinda Seems a Little risky to me.. grinding the crank..

Thanks.

As I purchased my block already prepped, I don't have first hand experience with that, but it is my understanding that the crank on the Taurus Duratech is *a little* too long to mate with the MTX-75. About 1/8" or less (others can give more details) off the end of it needs to be removed.

However, every 3.0 has had that done so I wouldn't worry about the risk. It can't be installed otherwise.

The flywheel end of the crank has a reducing bush pressed in,this is to accept the smaller dia spigot of the torque converter,it can be,if you have the correct puller,be removed but I think most are grinding it flush with the crankshaft flange...

3.0L Before grinding...notice unsightly bulge in center.

2.5L...no "bulge" present


These pics should make it very clear...

Unfortunaly when I did My 3.0L, I had no idea what people were talking about in the "crank grinding posts"... kept looking at the other end.
I actually installed the engine without grinding(before I knew what had to be ground). Needless to say, I broke something...the "bolting ear" off the front part of the ATX tranny case.
I think David Z actually cracked the oil pan, when he tried to bolt up the tranny/engine without grinding.

This is a fairly easy, but critical part of the 3.0L block prep, and should not/cannot be overlooked.
Good Luck,
Bito

So if i Buy a SHO shop block that is already preped.. will it have the crank ground down already? or am i still on my own with that one

I bought a SHO Shop block, and it does in fact come with the crank prepped. Do yourself a favor, price a brand new 2001 3L Duratech short block, a used 99+ 3L block or motor, and compare them to the price of the SHO Shop block. If I had to do it all over again, I would not have bought the SHO Shop block. Not worth the premium. To make a long story short, some of the smaller details needed to prep a 3.0 for the SVT install was not complete. Take note of the block as listed in the sig.

What do you mean by smaller modifications?

As a follow up to Terry's statement above. The bushing will only be present on engines with automatic transmissions. They are not installed on engines destined to have manual transmissions. However, the bushing in the 3.0L crank is slightly longer than the bushing in the 2.5L crank. I am assuming that this is why everyone is having to grind them down.

Waaaaaaaitta sec. Please do tell.

14.1 w/ a ATX? I'm more than impressed...

Spill the beans. What other mods?

John

The end of the crank has the extra lip protruding from it that aligns the flexplate (like a flywheel for an automatic). There is a press-fit steel aligment spacer (busing) inside the end of the crank that is used to align the 'nipple' on the torque converter.
You can ignore the pressed in spacer because the MTX-75 doesn't have a 'pilot' at the end of the input shaft. You just have to grind off the exra lip shown in the picture above.
Basically the input shaft does not fit inside the end of the crankshaft like some manual transmissions do.
warmonger