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Uneducated question here.
Because his system uses 2 pipes wouldnt the crush bend not really matter? I can certainly understand if he was going Qusi-dual with crush bends.
But wouldn't 2 2" or 2 2"1/4 pipes even crush bent flow as much or more than one 2 1/2" mandrel bent system.
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I guess using overlapping sleeves on the joints and welding those, you can keep the inside nice and smooth. If you use butt welds, I don't care how good you are, you either get inadequate penetration or weld beads hanging in the wind...
I still can't imagine building my setup with preset curves. It would sure take alot of prefab pieces...
Marco Tatta 98.5 SE MTX, Duratec EGR block, fog light fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust. Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
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Originally posted by mangler: I guess using overlapping sleeves on the joints and welding those, you can keep the inside nice and smooth. If you use butt welds, I don't care how good you are, you either get inadequate penetration or weld beads hanging in the wind...
I still can't imagine building my setup with preset curves. It would sure take alot of prefab pieces... You are wrong Mangler! Any welder that welds tubing for food processing plants must be able to make those types of welds. They must be fully penatrated and not protrude into the ID of the tubing. If a welder cannot make those types of welds he cannot weld food proccess tubing. 
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Please enlighten me redsvt...
I just don't see how...you want full penetration here, and a convex weld bead. You are looking at weld metal in the flow. minimal if you are a good welder, but still, rounded weld beads in the flow path.
Marco Tatta 98.5 SE MTX, Duratec EGR block, fog light fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust. Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
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Originally posted by mangler: Please enlighten me redsvt...
You are looking at weld metal in the flow. minimal if you are a good welder, but still, rounded weld beads in the flow path. No problem. You seem to need it... :p Unless you are a utterly crappy welder you should never burn through the pipe. Especially thick walled aluminized exhaust piping. The flow is smooth when using flanged ends and "of course" you would put them together reverse flanged so there would be no leading edges in the airflow! That's just common sense.
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Originally posted by Dirty Sanchez: Uneducated question here.
But wouldn't 2 2" or 2 2"1/4 pipes even crush bent flow as much or more than one 2 1/2" mandrel bent system. No... Answer here... Read this thread... http://www.contour.org/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=004371;p=1
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Originally posted by DemonSVT: Originally posted by Dirty Sanchez: [b]Uneducated question here.
But wouldn't 2 2" or 2 2"1/4 pipes even crush bent flow as much or more than one 2 1/2" mandrel bent system. No...
Answer here...
Read this thread...
http://www.contour.org/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=004371;p=1 [/b]Demon, I had read half that post befo being turned off by the usual ugliness. I see it adds weight, lots of it! And I see that it adds turbulence and there are quite a few bends in his exhaust which may kill the performance. Overall I assume it adds HP, but is is lost in the added weight Weight being a concern, I take it True-duals adds quite a bit as well. Dyno proven HP, yes! But power to weight may be equal to cat-back quasi-dual that weighs less. What do you figure replacing the rear Y nets in HP? cheap and easy to replace
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Originally posted by mangler: Please enlighten me redsvt...
I just don't see how...you want full penetration here, and a convex weld bead. You are looking at weld metal in the flow. minimal if you are a good welder, but still, rounded weld beads in the flow path. My pleasure Mangler, its called fussion. When you fuse weld 2 pieces of tubing together you simply use your TIG torch to melt and break down the parent metal of the tubing thus fussing the 2 parts together. You use NO filler wire when fussing the 2 parts together, only the parent metal of the tubing. It's really very simple and in no way involves rocket science as someone must have made you think. I hope this helps. 
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