Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Suspension aussie bar installation instructions

I got my bar today. Are there installation instructions online? I came up with nothing on my ceg searches. (well, i did find blorton's add-on's but not the actual instructions) While on the topic of the Aussie bar, when can we expect the upgraded brackets/endlinks/etc? If they are going to be ready to go soon, I'll just wait to install the bar.

Thanks,
Matt

p.s. - that bar really is light!!

the only reason I'm posting this is cuz I'm jealous of you......I want an AUSSIE BAR!!!

sorry I had to vent...carry on

Its as light or lighter than your stock bar. Mine was. I'm looking for the instructions somewhere.

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/f6caff64/bc/HOW+TO%27s/24mm+Hollow+Sway+Bar+Installation+Instructions.doc?bcUuDt8AxaOQour4

No worky.

24mm Hollow Sway Bar “Aussie-Bar” Installation Instructions

Footnote: All fasteners on the Contour/Mystique and Cougar are metric, so don't try and use imperial tools as you may damage the fastener's head. Also it helps to do this with an almost empty gas tank, as you will be moving the tank, and keeping it as light as possible helps a lot. A vice, deep socket set with extension bars and some silicon spray or grease will help you get the job done easier.

1. Reverse your car onto a set of ramps, or jack up the vehicle from both sides and support the frame rails with jack-stands.

2. Slide under the car and remove the through bolts holding the sway bar from the end-links.

3. Remove the end-links from the lower control arms, and cut the stock rubber bushing from the control arm.

4. Slide towards the FRONT of the tank, following the tank straps, and locate the two retaining bolts. (You will have to bend the heat shield away from the tank and remove some of the locking washers holding the heat shield to the underside of the body to do this). Support the front of the gas tank with a floor jack and piece of wood, then remove the bolts holding the gas tank.

5. Remove the bolts holding the stock sway bar (on the sway bar brackets), and remove the sway bar brackets.

6. Lower the gas tank slowly until the gap between the rear subframe and the gas tank increases enough to allow the sway bar to slide out easily. You may have to pull forward on the tank also, but not too much to remove the fuel filler tube from the tank or tear out the gas lines.

7. Remove the stock sway bar and set it aside.

8. You may now either weld in the optional sway bar bracket backing plate (see attachment) or reuse the stock brackets after a little reshaping.

9. Liberally coat the inside of your new supplied sway bar bushings with the supplied silicon grease. Lay the new sway bar next to the stock unit and place the new bushings in the same place as the stock ones were on the stock sway bar.

10. If you try to put the stock bracket over the new bushings, you will see that the bracket is slightly too tight to fit, this is OK. Place the bracket in a vice (holding the end with the hole in it) and using pliers bend it a little at a time to open up the bracket just enough to accommodate the new bushing on the bar. Don't bend the locking hook on the other end.

11. Get back under the car and push the bar into it's new home with the “legs” pointing rearward. This may be a tight fit even with the tank lowered. Don't worry.

12. Fit the new bracket over the bar if you have the welded backing plate or use your “tweaked” stock bracket over the bar and secure in place with the original bolts. The stock bracket is narrower than the new bushing, but it doesn't matter, the bushing should not move or cause you any problems they way it is, it cannot fall out. DO not tighten the bracket holding bolts fully yet.

13. Take your stock end links and slide the washer on. Then push one of the new bushings onto it. It helps to use a little silicon spray on the stud or some of the left over grease from the sway bar bushings. Use a socket and a hammer to drive the bushing home. If the washer doesn't fit you can drill it out or just leave it off, it is not necessary as the stock end-link has a stop on it. The bushings have a little step on them these should be facing each other when installed onto the control arm. They allow the sheet metal of the control arm to fit between the bushings. Do not tighten the end-links yet.

14. Reinstall the “through-bolts” through the end-links and through the sway bar eyelets. Tighten the bolts.

15. Now tighten the end-link bolts onto the control arm and then tighten the sway bar bushing brackets to the subframe also.

16. Check everything and then reinstall the bolts on the gas tank. Tighten them making sure the fuel filler neck at the rear passenger side of the tank is sliding home, into place.

17. Refasten the exhaust heat shield and reshape.

18. Test drive car, there should be no clunking or squeaking, if there is you did something wrong.

19. Enjoy the tighter handling, reduced body roll and increased cornering ability of you new optimized suspension.

thanks aussie