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Originally posted by Mani: hey i got a clunking sound coming from the back when i go over bumps and stuff .. so where is this coming from? Most likely from the bushings moving around in the stock brackets. Rear end "clunk" is a classic sway bar bushing noise on our cars.
The first Blown 3 Liter! "Drive it till the wheels fall off" -my personal motto!!!! 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180 Many Mods Buckshot77@aol.com Owner of 00 #1611 Silver Totalled on 10/7/01 SVT Parts for Sale
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I hear that clunking going on back there too. It seems to only happen when the car is cold. Once I drive around for a while it goes away. Hopefully the Aussie Bar w/ new brackets will take care of that.
98.5 SVT Black/Blue As Thomas Jefferson was fond of saying, "The price of freedom is eternal vigilance." If you're driving 60 in the left lane do us all a favor, GTFOOTW..
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Originally posted by SVTJOE1: Give it time my friend....Its crap...hahah new stuff is much better. Joe Originally posted by SQPlus:
Patience young one, patience...your time will come. :rolleyes: I am sure it is better...but I'll let you know in another 6 months how my STOCK CRAP is doing!! 
Josh Aka Spectra SVT 02 Dark Highland Green F-150 XLT Mods: Gunrack and cowboy boots
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I love the clunk because it says "HEY! OVER HERE!! LOOK AT ME!!!"
Spattmobili®
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Chezzterr, over at NECO has the same problem. I suggested to him that he get a better bracket made in place of the stock one. This is the weld-on bracket. [img]http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/Broken%5FBracket%2Ejpg[/img]
-Chris
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Yup that clunk is the bar. Mine was like that too when cold. As soon as it warmed up it went away. I thought it was my strut. I will take pics soon and have spatt post em Joe
1998.5 T-RED SVT 18" Team Loco 142's W/ Dunlop Rubber 181.2hp@6900rpm/155tq@5000rpm LOTS OF MODS OF EVERY KIND.... ...Am I a guru yet??? No... not yet.
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The clunk comes from the 'hook' end of the bracket slowly pulling out of the subframe hook receiver. I had a wicked clunk so I popped both brackets out and bent them back into their original shape. The bend is just like Chris showed in the picture - the bracket bends away from the subframe under the larger rear sway bars increased load. What's got me worried is that on one side, not only did the bracket hook end bend, but the subframe reciever did too  . Try bending that back! Or worse, like Stazi's case, the whole damn subframe backing plate lets go and the whole bar falls off. I'm going to get some backing plate reinforcements welded in pronto. -Kurt
-Kurt
"I'm a little sceptical of that internet thing. After all, what's it got besides information?" -DB, 1/97
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Are the brackets supplied from energy suspension? I'm thinking of getting some, because I think mine are FUBAR, even with the stock bar :rolleyes:
Here's a tip, when you reinstall your bar, make sur your car is level...
Marco Tatta 98.5 SE MTX, Duratec EGR block, fog light fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust. Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
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Originally posted by mangler: Are the brackets supplied from energy suspension? I'm thinking of getting some, because I think mine are FUBAR, even with the stock bar :rolleyes:
Here's a tip, when you reinstall your bar, make sur your car is level... IIRC Energy suspension isn't the right one to use because the outside diameter was way too big. Damn, I forget which one Stazi told me to use for sure, but don't use the ES ones. Thanks, Rick
The first Blown 3 Liter! "Drive it till the wheels fall off" -my personal motto!!!! 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180 Many Mods Buckshot77@aol.com Owner of 00 #1611 Silver Totalled on 10/7/01 SVT Parts for Sale
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The right bushings to use are PROTHANE!!! ES bushings are too thick and will make the bar sit too low (if it was actually possible) which in fact would cause the bar to hit the rear subframe.
On a side note, I have the upgraded weld-in backing plates almost done. They will be completed this weekend. I have 14 sets. They are shaped and predrilled, so they just need tot be welded in when you get them. $10 per pair (one pair required for each Aussiebar equipped car), plus $3 to ship.
If you want a set you can PayPal me the $13 using my email address below. Put "Swaybar Backing Plates" in the subject of your PayPal.
Regards, Anastazi Father of the Aussie Bar anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music." ----------------------------------- 2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150 8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's. Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502 http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt
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