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Krafty: Yes, it is a public shop...but BAT recommends making appointments for people that want to stop by (just so they can make sure you get the service, advice, etc that you need and dont catch them at a busy time). Concerning meeting up and going to BAT, im all for it. I was just about to go this week to get some info on the 22mm rear sway bar and a couple other accessories. The only thing is that im starting school tomorrow  so my free time now starts after 2:00. Let me know what would be the best date and time so we can work something out and so one of us can call BAT and make an appointment.
98 Merc. Mystique LS
Red Wings and US Soccer 0wn j00!
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Well anytime this week works for me, how about around 5:00 one day this week, whatever day works best for you? Since I'm on vacation, I have all the time in the world 
Ryan
Latest Mod: Mirko Splitter
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5:00 might not work due to the fact that BAT closes at 5  Since my school (Sarasota High) is closer to BAT/Siesta Key area than my house is, itd probably work best for me to go straight from school. So around 2:30-3:00 would be the best time frame. Ill call BAT tomorrow to make an appointment, and ill reply back with the date (Wed is earliest i can do it) and time (2:30-3:00). BTW, do you want to meet at BAT or at some other close place (ex: nearby shopping center, fast food place, etc) and go from there to BAT?
98 Merc. Mystique LS
Red Wings and US Soccer 0wn j00!
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Where is exactly is BAT? If you could give me directions from the bridge from Siesta Key to Sarasota I can find my way. So if I can figure out how to get there I'll just meet you at BAT and check everything out  Let me know what day and directions if you could and let's do it! Later
Ryan
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Alright now...
For reference...
Stock rear swaybar: 16mm
SVT rear: 18mm
Early SE(95-97): 19mm (this is also the one BAT sells & it's a standard Ford part)
Aftermarkets range from 21-23mm. All exhibit the dreaded "Clunk" and some even require weld on brackets. Not ONE of them is designed just like the stock bar with the proper bends for fitment and clearance. (why is that?)
Aussie Hollow Bar (24mm) Half the weight of the stock 18mm bar!!! That's huge!!! (Imagine the weight of a 23mm solid bar!) No clunk. Bent to exact specs of original bar and uses the original mounts. Can even use welded on mounts if you are so inclined. Yes I may seem biased. Yes I own one. Yes it's the best singular mod I have done so far... Look at the Facts and benefits though and decide!!!
Strut Braces.
Get the rear. By far the most effective! I recommend an actual tower brace in the rear (as opposed to SHOShops strut brace - it still works as advertised tho')
The Front. The towers are very strong. If you want one for looks. (Strut Tower Brace) So be it... If you want one that will help; get the SHOShop Strut brace. It actually mounts to the strut tops and will strengthen the upper strut bushings/mounts. Still not as effective as adding Front Poly bushings by themselves IMO. But that's another story...
Yes as a total package this is the way to go... (in order)
24mm Aussiebar Front Poly Bushing kit Rear Tower brace Front Strut Brace BAT Struts & Springs (Or coil-overs for the serious Auto-Xer's out there!) Rims & Tires (hard to beat the stock E1 wheels with good rubber IMO - well big $$$ could!)
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Hey DemonSVT, the Aussiebar doesn't clunk? Where do I order and how much? I'm currently on the infamous "waiting list" for a 22mm but dont want the clunk-ers as i like to do track events, and any unfamiliar noises tend to make me squeamish over 115mph... 
JasonS 2000 Silver Frost SVT #1119 of 2150 Eibach Springs / Corbeau Forza II Seat / TRW Sabelt 5-point belts / Pegasus Brake Ducts / Braided Steel Brake Lines/KVR pads / Black SVT Rims / Mirko Racing Front Airdam / Clear Corners / Knauberized Best Lap Road Atlanta: 1:56.1 -stock KDW tires!!
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Strut Braces.
Get the rear. By far the most effective! I recommend an actual tower brace in the rear (as opposed to SHOShops strut brace - it still works as advertised tho') Hey Demon - What do you mean by this? Is there another company that makes a better brace than SHO shop? Thanks, Patrick
mailto:paw@ite.com Still plays with cars 1999 SVT #2003/2760 Born on 04/22/99
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I have major mods to the rear of my car and I can say that your first add-on should be a rear tower brace. This eliminates the "fifth spring" and lets the suspension do the work it was designed to do. My bar is a custom piece with a 3 point weld on mounting arrangement. It made a HUGE improvement! I'm running 19mm front and rear bars with no squeaking, rattling, etc. My car is very neutral in the handling dept. It's not necessary to add a big rear bar to reduce understeer. There are many other factors which can add oversteer/reduce understeer. The existing, available sub frame connectors are generally a waste of $$$ as they strictly address chassis flex. Our cars are strong in bending. What does work is a proper X brace. Cornering loads are almost exclusively torsion loads, and this is what an X brace cures. I'm presently designing an X brace to really tighten up my '95.
Technical Director/Co-Owner Performance Fords-check out our new throttle body service 95 SE with lots of custom 1 off mods. All design, fabrication and installation by owner.
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Krafty: Im guessing by "bridge" that you mean the North bridge, which turns into Siesta Drive? If so...then follow these directions. Go over the bridge and continue on Siesta Drive until you get to S. Tamiami Trail. Turn left at the light and continue going north on S. Tamiami Trail. The road will fork (two lanes going left and two lanes staying straight). You want to stay straight, the road will now be called Washington Blvd S/US-301 N. About 3 miles ahead, turn right on 47th street. Then turn left onto Middle Ave. Middle Ave becomes 51st street. 51st street becomes Industrial Blvd. BAT is on Indutrial Blvd. The address is 2263 Indutrial Blvd. Ill reply soon with the date and time to meet.
DemonSVT: Yes, i have heard about the infamous clunking with some sway bars...but mostly only with the SCA and SPmotorsports ones. I havent heard any complaints about the BAT 22mm one. If you can scrounge up any negative info on the BAT one, itd help a lot before i go out and purchase one and have it start clunking.
98 Merc. Mystique LS
Red Wings and US Soccer 0wn j00!
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Might depend on which SP bar they got. Mine doesn't clunk at all and of course is a SP.
Demon: I know the SP bar uses the stock braket's and doesn't require welding. The only thing "bad" about the install is the bushings that come with it are a little bigger and require some "muscle" to get the bolt back in. I really wish I would've kept the pic to show the bends in the SP bar match the stock bar. Oh well.
Anti: I am not biased on which one to get. I wish I would have gotten the Aussie Bar as well but had the SP bar on order and paid for. Stiffer/lighter is better period.
Married the gal of my dreams 04.27.02  2K SVT Black/Midnight Blue #294 of 2150 DOB 10.29.99 kbucy@fbr.com ktigerj on aim A *few* Mods Best Time 14.942 at 93.98mph Car is now for sale - 14000
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