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Quote:
Originally posted by L8 Apexing Aussie:
The whole reason behind "auctioning" them off was because of their apparent scarceness at the time. So rather than say asking for a fixed price, I let people bid oon them so that only those who REALLY wanted it would have the best chance of getting one, rather than selling it to the first dude with $90 burning a hole in his pocket, with that person not really knowing why he/she just bought the damn thing. You savvy?


So. I suppose that once you determined who "really" wanted one you went ahead and dropped the price back down in secret right?
:rolleyes:
Well, I wouldn't disguise the fact that you are in it to earn a profit. There is no shame in that, its just business. You can have a business and have friends too. I just think that you could have set the price to one fixed amount and left it at that. Maybe $150 shipped, etc. Fixed pricing feels more 'fair' to the customers. No advantage is gained by anyone over another. Auctions are 'predatory'. Auctions are held for 'rare' items and are not designed to "hook-up" a buddy.
Haven't you ever heard someone brag about the deal they got on a car and someone who bought the same car feels terrible because they didn't?
The problem with your "auction" is that once the product becomes available at a fixed price, you run the risk of having it lower than what your auctioned parts went for. If that happens you have just lost credibility as a reseller, and 'Joe' goes away rubbing his arse like he got f**cked with no Vaseline because he didn't wait long enough.
If the price you auctioned them for is cheaper then there is no problem.

Some people have made posts with "undercurrents" in them which make the situation uncomfortable.
I hope that this post clarifies the situation for everyone by putting all the ramifications on the table.
My advice? Just ignore it. You are in it for the money and that should be OK and clear to everyone. It's clear to me.

warmonger

PS And Yes, I am considering buying one on the basis of reduced NVH.


You can call me anything you like as long as it's nice.(all lies accepted)
99 Silver Frost SVT. #226 of 2760
Engine: 3.0 power!
Unique Stuff: Sunroof control module (#1 of 9)
Car Audio: Loaded and loud!
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Quote:
Originally posted by edorfox:
Cool factory info on the DMD...

Toyota research

...Ed


Nice. Thanks for the link.

warmonger


You can call me anything you like as long as it's nice.(all lies accepted)
99 Silver Frost SVT. #226 of 2760
Engine: 3.0 power!
Unique Stuff: Sunroof control module (#1 of 9)
Car Audio: Loaded and loud!
Check them out at
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Quote:
Originally posted by warmonger:

Well, I wouldn't disguise the fact that you are in it to earn a profit. There is no shame in that, its just business.


One of the things I was trying to get across.

In any case, like I said, I won't say anything anymore, no need to over analyze it or piss each other off.


'98 SVT - modded
-15.01@91.8
'95 Suzuki GS500E
-faster than the above
---wanting a Speed Triple or Superhawk badly
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For what it's worth, I have no doubts this damper will increase the durability of the crank and reduce fatigue failures. I think it will also help the crank bearings in limit lubrification circumstances. The question is, was the mean fatigue life of the crank insufficient to begin with? And can half a pint of extra oil cure the bearing problem? If so, all you get for your 130$ is a smoother engine. Don't get me wrong, I might actually order the thing just for this purpose or for peace of mind. But I have a feeling its not "necessary".

We need as much information as we can on the subject. What we don't need is a higher than thou attitude and incomplete answers. I can see some people not understanding if it gets too technical (me included). But humour us. I bet some people on this board will have a vague idea what you are talking about... :rolleyes:


Marco Tatta
98.5 SE MTX, Duratec
EGR block, fog light
fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve
Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust.
Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
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I guess I am not sure what else is needed....I am not going to post physical data on engines collected...cuz that would be stupid. I have answered all of the questions...
Of the people that bought them from Stazi: has anyone installed them and what are your feelings? The vibration that you feel at higher RPM is your crank going ape**** in the girdle. That is what is gonna wipe your engine out. Teh secondary mass is designed to remove the bending of the crank....generically speaking...


Just call me Judge.
People suck.
Life begins at 170mph...until that point it is just boring.....
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Geez guys, I bought the first one Stazi auctioned off and I felt the money I paid for it was worth the added insurance. For $130,150 or even what I paid for it, the peace of mind alone is worth that. Heck the cheap accusump kits start at $180 so how does that figure in. I still say Stazi and Judge are the **** cuz they at least got a few into circulation where nobody would have had them and this whole argument wouldn't even be relevant. Now that Terry has a good source for us, I'd recommend people buying one if they are in the least worried about the possibility of engine harmonics destroying the bearings. At $130 it's still a deal.

Rick


The first Blown 3 Liter!
"Drive it till the wheels fall off" -my personal motto!!!!
98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
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I haven't received mine yet...

I'll let you all know when I do... laugh


2000 SVT #674 - Check it out!

Whoever coined the phrase; "If it ain't broke; don't fix it" ~ Just doesn't get it...
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To those that ask why the non SVT 2.5L and 3.0L "seem" to have less failures I would suggest this..

SVTs rev higher/faster/more often. Correct me if I am wrong (Judge?) but I expect that harmonics may increase at higher RPMs. You have seen SVT dynos - peak power AT or NEAR 7000 RPM fuel cut (compared with peaks around 5600-6000 RPM for the strongest SE/Cougars). Combined with lighter SVT flywheel (an additional effect on harmonics???) the SVT ON AVERAGE will spend much more time above 6000 RPM to wring out the power - except for all but the hardest driving Cougar/SE guys who represent a minority. And the 3L in the taurus/sable has the ATX which hardly ever sees >5000 RPM (I know, my wife has one). To me it makes sense that the SVTs (which are also overrepresnted here at CEG so you hear more) may have more failures. Premature failures DO occur with SEs and now even a few Cougars (3?) so it is not limited to SVTs - just more common (?). And the high RPM factor may expose SVT to more oil starvation as well based on the Roush data (minimal oil in oan at 5000 RPM).

Just my thoughts but I think dual mode damper is more critical for SVT & non SVTs who really rev it. I have not installed the DM yet (probably early March) but will give feedback.

Another Kudos to Aussie and Terry for making the DM available. smile


1999 Amazon Green SVT Contour (#554/2760)
Stock SVT Duratec V6 with:
Intake- K&N filter/75mm MAF meter
Exhaust- MSDS Y-pipe/Bassani catback
Durability-Ford "dual mode" damper, Mobil 1/K&N oil filter
179.2 FWHP at 6900 RPM
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My DMD arrived yesterday, but the USPS wouldn't leave it at the door. So, I will be getting it tonight or tomorrow. Thanks Aussie!


Chris
NJ
98.5 SVT Silver Frost w/Frankentrans
carsla AT optonline DOT net
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