Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications General Mods Oil filter

No offense meant, but you have no idea what you are talking about. More air does flow through a K&N, but air is smaller than dirt. Dirt is trapped by the oiled gauze element - it sticks to it as well as gets trapped in the orifices. AMAOF, a K&N will filter better when it is dirty, because the trapped dirt will make the filter more restrictive. There is a corresponding decrease in airflow as well. Still flows and filters better than stock paper filters.

A K&N has been dyno proven to add 0-1 hp in a stock SVT. However, it is good to allow more air into an engine that has been modded to take advantage of it. Other applications, those that have more restrictive intakes that are a bottleneck, can gain more hp from a K&N.

CELs from K&N's are a result of over-oiling, NOT dirt getting through the filter. I used to work at the plant that makes the MAF and oil on the contacts was the #1 warranty return. Not dirt but oil.

And if Demon's experience with oil analysis doesn't give you the data you need to be convinced that a K&N oil filter is better than Motorcraft then I don't know what will. Although the Motorcraft is the best low cost oil filter available.

"My guess the same applies for an oil filter unless proven otherwise."

Livinsvt, see Demon's post above. It WAS proven otherwise.

I am certified through ford motor company and have been through a lot of training. If your trying to tell me I know nothing then your getting no were. I not a performance guru but we have had many disscussions about k&n filters in my classes. I used to be convinced of the air filters capability. But defintely not anymore. My instructor is ASE certified master,Ford certiied master and has 20-30 years of experience. It was fought out constantly. I never said it didn't flow more air. I said it flows more air, but the oil can is not effective as u think. I work at a dealer and an the k&n voids warranties. It was not the oil we cleaned it was obvious dirt. The oil filter maybe differnt. I just need the hard facts in front of me to believe.

oh ya 0-1 hp why wast money

Okay, agreed- about the K&N air filter. The dirtier it gets, the more dirt it removes from the air. AND-read the back of the package- using cotton gauze and oil is a BETTER method of filtering that dry paper.

I have NO experience with K&N oil fliters.

BUT- I do use Mobil 1 filters, and have been pleased with the oil coloring and smell at a five thou mile change interval.

I have yet to send any off to a lab to have it checked- but that's a good idea.

Also, Motorcraft filters are very good- and much cheaper. But, there was the restriction issue.

Speaking of that independant tester, where did his website go? I have been visiting it for a while, like maybe a year, everytime I wanted to review his info, and now it is GONE..... hmmmm...

So, stick with Motorcraft or Mobil 1.

livinsvt,
The K&N does not void warranties, as stipulated by the magnussen-moss act, and if you and/or the dealer you work for are voiding warranties simply by the presence of an aftermarket filter, then you are violating federal law.
Further, the K&N air filter for an SVT Contour flows pretty close to the same amount as the stock paper filter, as long as the paper filter is brand new and perfectly clean. The K&N just doesn't lose flow nearly as quickly as dirt builds up on the filter.
I will also re-iterate that the problem w/ the K&N filters is not with excessive dirt getting through, but when the filter is re-oiled w/ excessive oil. The oil can build up on the sensor wires of the MAF, dirt just really doesn't build up on the sensor wires, and it would take an awful lot of dirt to clog the MAF, more than could flow through any filter.

And finally back on topic - The "tests" on the different oil filters are all a bit misleading, because all of the tests are done at different specifications, like the ~14gpm for the K&N and the 3gpm for the motorcraft filter are tested at unknown pressures, if the Motorcraft filter gets 3gpm @ 2psi, and the K&N gets 14gpm at100 psi, I'm gonna take the motorcraft any day of the week, provided filtering level is equivalent.

All that said, I think the general consensus on previous discussions was that they are all decent except the Fram which is supposedly crap.

Throwing your "credentials" out is fairly meaningless as most of us have atleast some automotive background and others garner some serious credentials... It's like you are trying to "make" us believe something just because you have "training".

With stock paper filter & FL-820S I had the worst oil analysis results of the bunch

Cotton Gauss Air & FL-820S was borderline in viscocity & flash point after a mere 3000 & 3500 miles (Mobil 1), but it was specifically noted that air filtration (solids) was in excellent working order.

Cotton Gauss Air & K&N Oil was the best results by far. (4k interval) Median averages for viscosity & thermal breakdown and solids, insolubles and other contaminents were the lowest of any test.

All oil was 5W30 Mobil 1 from the same batch (I buy in bulk)

Those are cold hard facts telling you that you are indeed incorrect.

As for the oiled cotton gauss vs paper vs foam debate. USE THE SEARCH! It's been beat to death...
Cotton gauss flows the best, foam filters the best. Paper is the cheap median point. The difference in filtering ability is miniscule, but the added benefits of the cotton gauss style's ability to straighten out the incoming air is where it gets it's biggest power gains from.

BTW - believe what you will... I'm not protecting and modding your car... (or selling anything )

I won't hit the warranty issue it's already been well answered!

Your trying to prove a point that I already stated. I said it was an excellent race filter. It does flow better. Its a race application. If there is a over oiling condition why is is not stated in the k&n recharging kit. It states in step #4 spray k&n oil on filter covering each pleat. wait 10 minutes and spray again. Thats a lot of oil. Says nothin about over oiling. But to service it every 50-100,000 miles. But frequent re-oiling if heavy off road use. In Michigan with construction season you would have to do it quite frequently. It would be hard with stock paper element to clog your maf wires, but once again i have seen it first hand clogging of the maf wires on cars with under the 50,000 reoiling mark set engine lights. Believe what u will. Throwing my credentials around was not to sound like an arrogant a-hole but when stated " I know nothing" i had to defend myself. It is a simple disscusion. Thats all no hard feelings meant by anything.

Back on the topic. The oil filter tests, you would be having to use the same kinda of oil, same mileage after use and exactly the same test. Different oils breakdown at differnt times. You are comparing regular grade oil to synthetic (which im sure your not) thats apples and oranges. Im all for a better filter, just need the facts.

I suggest you go back and actually read what I posted! :rolleyes:





So the K&N's oil had more miles yet better viscocity, flash point & less contaminents.

All tests done by Blackstone Labs!

Slam dunk!

2. Did you just make some of that up?

It specifically states. Spray bottom of each pleat. 1 pleat per pass. Let oil wick up the filter. Wait 10 minutes and apply to any white spots showing

If you check out an actual filter box, K&N's site, or a K&N catalog it states:
"When servicing a K&N filter, take care not to over-oil the element. Never saturate the filter. If oil drips from any part of the filter, wash it and start over. Use only K&N oil. For example, an E-1500 filter has 92.4-inches of surface area requiring 1.707 fluid ounces oil. Follow the oiling instruction included with your filter."

BTW - 1.7 ounces is only ~20% of the oil supplied in a standard recharge kit and the E-1500 filter is one of their larger filters.
I've used my kit for over 5 years and 4 different filters with multiple cleanings on some of those filters.
Never once have had an over saturated filter or MAF problems because of it.

Another note. My wifes car with over 80k miles on it consistently received outstanding oil results and engine wear ratings using a K&N air filter, Pure One & Mobil 1. So obviously even over a long term test the filter does an exceptional job.

...and like I stated before... I don't sell them either, just have hard data they filter better then people give them credit for. (your "instructor" included!)

As for their oil filters. The little data I have using them vs the stock FL-820S has them a hands down winner so far. I also gave you my educated guess why earlier.

I seem to recall a SHO site with this same type of findings with their Yamaha motor & oil filters... Have to dig up that link...