"Driveshaft? I thought those were only applicable to RWD cars. Am I mistaken?"
Sorry, I ment half shafts, the front axles. a company called Driveshafts.com or something similar to that name supposedly will make them for $600 IIRC. Stock driveshafts will probably not last long at 400+ HP.
Rollcage? 500HP? Just from a 3L/turbo and a new intake/exhaust?.
Yes, you will be putting lots of stress on the chassis, as FWD is not optimal at putting down this kind of power. I would expect alot of flex on a hard launch. Subframe connectors + STBs front & rear, along with proper motor mouts would be a minimum I think. A roll cage is even more stiffness but big bux. 500HP, yes. With the 2.5L Duratec & built bottom but little breathing work making 450 HP in Dutweillers hands, headwork on the 2.5L should be worth 500-550HP. A 3L may make 20% more, or 600-650HP if the bottom could hold it!!! Thats why (in my vary limited oppinion) I say stay 2.5L for turbo, the block should be stronger in some respects (its the same block but smaller bores = more metal surrounding them. It will make all the power you will want - then some.
"SHO trimetal bearings is another something I was unaware of. On the
damper, the latest I've heard is that the Cougar's "dual-mode" damper is
preferable. Rods and pistons are another something that goes without saying,
but at 8.5:1? Is that kind of a drop really neccesary for 6-8psi (have I
mentioned I have no turbo experience/knowledge? )"
Cougar damper probably will work for the crank harmonics issue (I'm looking into this) but for the high RPM work the setup would be capable of, the FISHER damper with its underdrive would be desireable as it also will prevent the premature failure that your 8000RPM built Duratec will cause. The SHO V8 bearings fit the 2.5L Duratec and while expensive (about $80 each x 6) will along with the better damper & some crank prep improve chances that you will not break a crank or spin bearings. Enhancements to the crank girdle itself may be desireable (talk to Terry H about what he can do here). Crank whip is a real problem I think. If going to forged pistons, most agree around 8.5:1 optimal for best boost tolerance vs off boost power.
I suggest calling Terry if you are REALLY serious here as I am only guessing based on info I have learned here over the last 2 years. He is involved with a super turbo 2.5L Duratec project already (with up to 10,000RPM capability, titanium rods & God knows how much power capability). BIG bux but I believe doable. And be sure you want to do this with a Contour. I love my SVT but a FWD family car is not even close to the optimal starting platform. Tweaking an SVT to 220-240HP with bolt ons + some suspension upgrades I think makes "some" sense. Thats what I am doing & I will be out probably 3K in mods but OK, I bought the car for 18.4K so for say 21.5K I have a nice allaround machine even if I do take a resale hit. But over 10-20K in mod money down the drain at resale is too rich for my blood. Now a nice used M3 for 25K and a 5K supercharger making 350+ HP would absolutely rock. Would put all that power down beautifully, stock chassis, tranny, brakes would be OK & a better chance of resale.
Anyway, hope this info is useful.
