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Hey Doc, here's a pic of that plugged pipe. You can see my 'Stang window crank knob just to the left of the 'S' pipe. Should I leave it alone or can I replace it with something to get rid of that mess? 
callmecam2@hotmail.com
"You might be a king, or a little street sweeper ... but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper! Yeah, get down with my bad self."
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Hey CAM2, email me the pic... You cannot post an image from Yahoo. It will not show. Dom 
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Yep , you're missing that long plastic pipe that runs along the radiator hoses.. I have one if ya need it.. Dom
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Doc-- thanks. But, now I'm wondering why you took yours off . . . If it was to go faster (and I don't know why you'd remove it if it wasn't  ) then maybe I should look at doing what YOU did rather than put the piece back on. So, if getting rid of that junk is an improvement, what do I need to do?
callmecam2@hotmail.com
"You might be a king, or a little street sweeper ... but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper! Yeah, get down with my bad self."
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Basically it involves buying/finding a newer style IAC bypass hose from a Tour or Cougar.. Then remove the juice can and other garbage and install that s-hose. That's it.. But beware - If you buy a hose from a Cougar make darn sure you take the IAC motor from it too.. Because it will amplify the moose ten times over..lol I had it moosing when shifting it was so bad.. But it's all gone now since I replaced the IAC valve with the new design. Dom
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Okay . . . sorry for all the questions. If you were talking Holley carbs I'd be right with ya.
First, what's an IAC? Second, my moose is COMPLETELY gone, and all that happened was that the pipe fell off and I plugged it with the knob.
Do I even NEED to hunt down this new IAC thing now that I've killed the moose? What's the advantage of doing so?
callmecam2@hotmail.com
"You might be a king, or a little street sweeper ... but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper! Yeah, get down with my bad self."
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IAC=Idle Air Control valve.... This is what controls the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate to keep the engine at idle and when accessory load is added (Power steering and A/C) If your's is working fine now - Don't mess with it. You will encounter the moose if you remove the hose completely and bypass it.
Dom
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Groovy. Too bad they didn't stamp 'SVT' on '68 Mustang window crank knobs . . .  Thanks for the help! Another quick question for ya: Is it necessary/advisable to 'reset' the computer after EVERY mod (like my KKM intake?) If so, do I have to pull the fuses outlined in the How To section or is pulling the battery cable just as effective? After I do, what do I have to do? Drive normally or beat the snot out of it? ~ Joe
callmecam2@hotmail.com
"You might be a king, or a little street sweeper ... but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper! Yeah, get down with my bad self."
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Originally posted by CAM2: Groovy. Too bad they didn't stamp 'SVT' on '68 Mustang window crank knobs . . .
HEY!!! Its made of plastic right? why not get something metal...that you can heat up...(that says SVT) heat it up, and press it into the plastic...hmmm...might be worth a try! (I can see it now...someone buys all the old stock on 68 mustang window cranks, and then we see a new product for the 'Tours: The SV T Vacuum Plug...only $9.95 (plus shipping!!!!) Eh...never mind I shot my moose.  Just unhook the battery for like 5-10 minutes. That will be enough.
Seeya
FUseface
"Superhero Extrordinaire"
"I am Nigh-Invulnerable!"
97 LX Sport
AIM:MiguelAD8
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Actually I do not recommend removing the battery cable or fuses to reset the computer... It will adjust on it's own after time... Resetting it only causes it to lose all settings... and incurs poor fuel mileage and hesitation until it sets back up... (Which can take up to 500 miles!!!!!) Please don't unhook unless absolutely necessary for risk of own self destruction..lol Dom
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