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Hmmm, check dis here out. $60 or so for the filter,tube and horn. The car pulls harder at highway speeds with this arrangement.





Easy to do, not very expensive, and after driving through several heavy rain storms, no water at all at the top of the tube. the tube is that flex stuff with lots of coiled wire that impedes water flow. Main reason I did it was just to get some cooler air into the filter, wasn't looking for big gains.

dan

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Quote:
Originally posted by conig:
hey scott how well does that fan set up you have on there now work whats the cfm of that fan etc.


The fan moves 63 cfm. Seems to work great in this summer heat. No problems with water so far. I have a screen where the scoop couples with the hose behind the bumper.


Scott
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Something I've wondered about is the AEM Air Bypass Valve. Read about it here. It would certainly add some peace of mind if you're worried about water injestion, and doesn't looke like it would disrupt airflow all that much when installed (sorry, I skipped that day in Physics class).

For those too lazy to click:

Quote:

New Air Bypass Valve
AEM's Air Bypass valve for Cold Air Induction Systems totally eliminates the unlikely chance of water ingestion should the filter element become wet from deep puddles, rain, hail, sleet or snow-or any other scenario in which the filter element could encounter or become submerged in water. The valve installs along the upper portion of the inlet pipe on the same axis as the throttle body centerline. Should a drop in pressure occur within the pipe, the valve shuts down induction at the filter and routes incoming air through the valve's external orifices, eliminating any chance of water ingestion.


It sells for $40. Not sure where it would fit along the intake system, but if anyone is so worried about water they can find a way to make it fit.

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This is sorta what you are talking about? Made it myself for $12.


Dan Parmelee
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Here's what I did on my 'tour
[URL=http://contour.org/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002687][/URL]


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Well that didn't work right. Let me try this: http://contour.org/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002687


callmecam2@hotmail.com
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Sticking a ram air tube in the fog light hole is what I have been fantasizing about lately. (My real fantasy is to not only put a ram intake in the fog light hole, but to stick an eRAM blower somewhere along the tube in the wheelwell. Add a K&N filter element and a Diablo chip and you've got some powerful mods that are completely invisible when you open the hood!)

I was saddened to observe that the plastic grill they put in the fog light hole blocks most of the air, so you wouldn't be able to keep it looking stock on the outside. I suppose such an intake would need (a) some kind of screen to keep rocks out, and (b) a drain hole for any water that gets into it...


96 GL Zetec ATX, white with pinstripe, nickname " Sam Smooth "
mods so far: CTA intake with homemade heat shield, KVR drilled front rotors & carbon pads w/ 500° fluid
planned mods: exhaust (want to keep it quiet), e-ram (awaiting installation), diablo chip
involuntary mods: compression increased after head gasket failure
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Quote:
Originally posted by CAM2:
Well that didn't work right. Let me try this: http://contour.org/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002687


Okay but how much did that set you back, eh?


'99 Contour SE Sport, 50k, V-6, ATX, T-Red, With Many many mods.
'99 GMC Sonoma SLS, 16k, 4-cyl, Summit white, not as many mods.

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Quote:
Originally posted by Elizabeth:
FIRST: how do you KNOW??? that the airflow into THAT opening "at speed" is any good???


We don't, but it's obviously unlikely to be worse than drawing random turbulent air from under a plastic cover in the wheelwell.

Quote:
THEN: some have tried this in past and the strict no leaks from hole to cleaner screwed up the engine some.


I'm not following this; are leaks good or bad? We'd certainly need a water drain hole. Screwed up how?


96 GL Zetec ATX, white with pinstripe, nickname " Sam Smooth "
mods so far: CTA intake with homemade heat shield, KVR drilled front rotors & carbon pads w/ 500° fluid
planned mods: exhaust (want to keep it quiet), e-ram (awaiting installation), diablo chip
involuntary mods: compression increased after head gasket failure
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You will find that 'cold' air is better than ram air as the forward speed of the vehicle cannot match the volume of air the engine needs.A 'closed tube' system from the scoop or whatever to the cleaner or MAF will starve the engine of air.The original source of air from under the fender has low/ no turblance, its 'dead' and as such is subject to 'heat soak' from ambient temps and engine heat.An intake under the fender is fine as long as you work with a 'draft' to the inlet tube/filter Vs closing the tube and hoping it will ram,it will not.Put a low pressure gage on the intake pipe on your 'ram system', you will need to be doing around 100mph to make 1/2 psi!!


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