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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 178
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FL_SVT I have that same clicking noise when my clutch is out. I think that all of these issues will cause premature wear on the clutch. It would probably be good to spread the word that this clutch is definately not the way to go.

1) intermittent slipping
2) premature engagement
3) clicking when clutch is disengaged

It sounds like the Grizzly is a little more robust set up. Thanks for everyone's input. I'm going to pass this on to SP Motorsports. I think they are the only ones who carry this clutch and I'm also going to post it in performance and problems. Good luck to all with this one! mad


98 Black E0 #946 of 6535
Koni struts & Eibach springs
24mm Aussiebar
Pro Flow 75mm MAFS calibrated to KKM filter
Wilwood Brake Kit with cross-drilled rotors
Clutchmaster's Stage 1 Clutch & Fidanza Flywheel
Custom Dual Exhaust with an Xpipe
MSDS Headers
Custom Cold Air Intake with KKM filter
Dyno'd at 177 hp and 156 ft-lbs
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 178
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Posts: 178
Okay...here is the latest from Unorthodox. He had suggestions for each of the problems except the moaning. Not sure about that one. For the clutches that are slipping, he suggested going easy on the clutch until 750-1000 miles to allow it to break in. I no longer experience any slipping. I did the opposite. I came hard off the clutch a few times and that seemed to clear it up. Hopefully for those who are slipping, the break in peroid will take care of that. As for the chatter when the pedal is out, he told me that the stock clutch has springs in the hub which eliminate most of the engine and transmission noise. The Unorthodox clutch has a solid center which transmits more noise. He said it should not affect long term wear and tear. It's something that the Grizzly does not suffer from b/c Grizzly's have springs in the center like the stock ones. I can live with the chatter and I guess that's one that hopefully everyone can live with since it won't hurt anything. The last one, which is the most annoying for me, is the premature engagement. He told me that since the cars have a hydraulic clutch, it sounds like it could be air in the lines. He gave me examples of certain cars which are hard to bleed completely and suggested a power bleeding where the fluid is litereally forced through to ensure there is no air left in the lines. I am going to try and find a good transmission shop who can do this and let everyone know the results. It may be a couple weeks since I'm going out of town for a week starting this weekend. I'll post a new subject when I get some results which may prove helpful to everyone. Hopefully, if those experiencing the slipping get past that issue and the engagement issue is really the bleeding, we all may be in decent shape. To Be Continued... :rolleyes:


98 Black E0 #946 of 6535
Koni struts & Eibach springs
24mm Aussiebar
Pro Flow 75mm MAFS calibrated to KKM filter
Wilwood Brake Kit with cross-drilled rotors
Clutchmaster's Stage 1 Clutch & Fidanza Flywheel
Custom Dual Exhaust with an Xpipe
MSDS Headers
Custom Cold Air Intake with KKM filter
Dyno'd at 177 hp and 156 ft-lbs
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