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I must say I really like the sound a lot and it seems to have more low end power. I haven't had a real chance to drive it on the freeway or up hills since I installed it. Just a word of advice for people getting the CTA. Make sure that you tighten everything down several times. I had a leak that took me a while to find. BTW I do have a question for those of you that have already installed a CTA. How did you get those two bolts off the throttle body?
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Good question!!!!! I can't get one of them out so I just left it there. I probably will just take the bolt and try to unscrew it again.
The CTA is a good mod to do! The place that I noticed it a lot is up in the range of 60-65, I don't have to down shift anymore to pass someone.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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I couldn't get either one out.  I need some help people. 
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Joined: Aug 2001
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A can of Liquid Wrench and a BIG-ASS Vice Grips. It takes a bit of work but they will come off. Just make sure to cover your TB opening so that any crud/metal shavings don't get into it.
BTW, I put mine on about a month ago and am now having some problems. It bogs down when I stomp on it every once in a while. I'm going to try cleaning the MAF. I think that some of the oil from the filter may have gotten on it. Any other thoughts?
HTH,
Ben
96 Contour GL (2.0L Zetec, ATX)
Sony CDX-C780 HU, Sony CDX-805 10 disc Changer, Sony XDP-210EQ, RF Punch 100.2 Amp, RF Punch 240.4 Amp, Dual 12'' Punch subs, Four Infinity Kappa 693.3i 6x9's, Optima Yellow Top
CTA Intake, Hood Struts, EL Ford Logo, Hi Beam/Low Beam Mod, Blue LEDs in door handles and footwells
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Joined: Jan 2001
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You may have an air leak. That is what mine acted like.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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You will need a 10mm deepwell socket for the one bolt that's in there a little...well....deep. I didn't have one so I ripped the whole thing off, and then the next day found a 10mm deepwell. :rolleyes:
The other one came off just fine for me, although there is one that will take alot of turning, believe me. What I did was pull up on the air resonator and then ratchet the bolt; this gave me the best results.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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Woops, just re-read your post and realized I'm a retard. You said bolts, not nuts  As for those bolts, I have NO clue how to get them off. What I ended up doing was bending them towards the intake to keep it on the TB tighter. Ask Chris Wong and see if he knows!
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Joined: Jul 2000
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post whore can't get the bolts un done
hahahahahahahahaha :p
Joe Hartley "yes I know it's a MTX Zetec but it beats having a ATX Duratec" Champagne 96 GL MTX some mods dynoed at 114.2whp and 124.4wtq (pre CTA intake) 16.858 @ 80.76mph (yes it's slow but still faster than D Davis) AIM: ZetecRacing My Site My Profile
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Originally posted by ZetecRacing:
post whore can't get the bolts un done
hahahahahahahahaha :p Later
Red '97 GL Sport MTX IVELISE ================================== "Let every nation know, whether it wishes us well or ill, that we shall pay any price, bear any burden, meet any hardship, support any friend, oppose any foe to assure the survival and success of liberty." John F. Kennedy
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Another thought... I wonder if hardware stores sell reverse-threaded metric nuts. I really screwed up my studs with the Vise Grips. I'm guessing that reverse nuts and a regular socket wrench would work quite well.
96 Contour GL (2.0L Zetec, ATX)
Sony CDX-C780 HU, Sony CDX-805 10 disc Changer, Sony XDP-210EQ, RF Punch 100.2 Amp, RF Punch 240.4 Amp, Dual 12'' Punch subs, Four Infinity Kappa 693.3i 6x9's, Optima Yellow Top
CTA Intake, Hood Struts, EL Ford Logo, Hi Beam/Low Beam Mod, Blue LEDs in door handles and footwells
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