|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 499
Member
|
OP
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 499 |
Hey, I am in the process of lowering my car. Now, I have all the bolts removed. I removed the sway bar, the brake lines and such from the strut. I am stuck trying to remove the Lower A arm from the knuckle. The ball joint pin is half way out of the knuckle, but will not budge any further. Its slightly angled in the whole, which is why i think it is stuck. I tried jacking it up to push the ball joint pin back up into the pinch bolt of the knuckle, but it just wont move. Even banging on it with the trusty sledge hammer doesnt even move it.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 18
Junior Member
|
|
Junior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 18 |
I recently did the clutch on my old 95 gl you really need to just beat he hell out of the ball joint or simply pry at it with a ball joint seperator or big ass srewdriver. Be carelul as to not ddamage the bushing. Good luck man 
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 450
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 450 |
use a big ass crowbar. works everytime.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,683
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,683 |
just beat it,yeah beat it.............Micheal J
Howard
1998 Silverfrost SVT #1612
June mods:
17" ADR RS Limited Limix Wheels
with 215/45/17 Yokohama AVS Sports
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 206
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 206 |
I had the same problem on one side - first side came off easily, the second side took some work. What worked in the end was to stand on the A-arm (trick I picked up watching a BMW club racer). Whatever you do, don't use pickle forks - you'll mess up the rubber bushing for sure.
Eric
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,444
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,444 |
Use the car jack to push the arm down.
That's what I had to do
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 499
Member
|
|
OP
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 499 |
Ok, I finally removed the ball joint pin from the knuckle. One question, why doesnt the A-arm fall to the ground? It seems to be spring loaded. That being, how the heck do I get the strut out of the knuckle since its not just hanging? Do i have to take off the A-arm also?? Hopefully someone can help me out. 
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 206
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 206 |
You're doing fine - the A-arm has limited travel downwards. You don't have to remove the A-arm. Just position the strut a little off to the side and start banging on the hub to move it down the strut tube. This part takes some work. I found it easiest to cut a piece of pipe (just plane galvanized water pipe) about 8" long to use almost like a chisel.
Eric
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 499
Member
|
|
OP
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 499 |
OK, I finally have the strut and spring on. NOW, i cannot get the ball joint pin back up into the knuckle. It seems like the whole knuckle assembly needs to be pushed upwards, and in towards the car. But it just wont budge.. Once again i am stuck.. Here's a picture of where I'm at  PLEASE HELP!! AND THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP SO FAR!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,296
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,296 |
LOL! I had the same problem when I replace my wheel bearings. It's basically very simple. Those bushings in there... well... they've been there for looooong time and they're acting like a spring. The A-arm don't travel all the way down because it hits the lower end of the mounting point on the subframe. Now you know how to take it off (with lotsa beating and crowbar or something for leverage), you can put it back on easy too. All you need to do is to move the strut as far as it can go (meaning way passed where the screws would go), and swing it back and forth so you can make it back in again. Trust me, with enough patient it WILL be done! Good luck! Keep us posted on what it looks like afterwards.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
