|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 515
Member
|
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 515 |
Switches should be the same. Below 40 deg. or so, the saturated pressure of the R134a (or r12) is so low that the low pressure switch doesn't allow the compressor to come on. As the engine compartment and passenger compartment warm up, the pressure will be high enough to enable it. Variations in pressure switch mfg. (you know all our parts are highest quality :rolleyes: ) means the actual pressure the switch breaks or makes can vary, ie YMMV. 
"My Name is Richard. I am a Contouraholic."
1999 SE Sport Duratec ATX Spruce Green; Drop--In K&N Filter; VentShades;
Fog Lamp Fix Mod & PIAA510s with Bumper Braces & Stock Type aiming screw mod;
PIAA 9006 Super White Headlamps
AIWA CDC-MP3 HU; WeatherTech Mats
Viper 600ESP w/Remote entry
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,428
Member
|
|
OP
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,428 |
Hmm, if I get this straight, you're saying that my pressure switch could be faulty?? Could any problems arise from that? In any case, I think having control of the system will be an improvement in useability. Thanks for all the info btw!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 515
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 515 |
According to the "book", the switch is a combo high pressure/low pressure/normal switch. The reason the compressor needs to be off with low temps is to prevent the compressor from trying to compress liquid refrigerant. also called "slugging". The suction of the compressor should only see refrigerant in a gaseous form. If it is 20 out and your car is cold inside and out and the compressor comes on immediately, I would suspect a faulty switch. On rotary compressors slugging is tolerated a little but puts a huge drag on the drive belt and will eventually damage the comressor. Like liquid gas in the cylinder of your engine, liquid refrigerant is uncompressable and removes the oil film from the walls of the compressor. If we have a gear type, the gears wear out fast, if we have a blade type, the blades wear out fast. Best way to check is with pressure gages and monitor the system pressures. The dash switch will keep the compressor off well enough though. 
"My Name is Richard. I am a Contouraholic."
1999 SE Sport Duratec ATX Spruce Green; Drop--In K&N Filter; VentShades;
Fog Lamp Fix Mod & PIAA510s with Bumper Braces & Stock Type aiming screw mod;
PIAA 9006 Super White Headlamps
AIWA CDC-MP3 HU; WeatherTech Mats
Viper 600ESP w/Remote entry
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 352
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 352 |
ATTN: Silversvt...
I have found an A/C switch and installed it. It's real tidy! Check out the car stuff folder in my profile link to WebShots.
...Ed
2000 Silver Frost SVT
#1625 14 Jan 2000
Dual Mode Dampener
A/C switched
K&N Dropin
Magnecor
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 852
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 852 |
Edorfox, you freakin rule!
As soon as I can get my lazy butt off the chair, I'm all over this mod...
BTW, isn't the real problem the placement of the temperature switch? What happens on my car, is even when its real cold out, if I catch a little traffic or do some city driving, the dang switch gets hot enough to cycle the compressor...
Figure placing it near the front grill would have busted the wiring budget on the car :rolleyes:
Marco Tatta
98.5 SE MTX, Duratec
EGR block, fog light
fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve
Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust.
Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 352
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 352 |
Hmmm...Never really thought about how often the compressor cycles when it's switched on...I just glad I am in contol of it now!
By the way, I failed to mention...the switch is from a 1981 or 82 Datsun 200SX.
...Ed
2000 Silver Frost SVT
#1625 14 Jan 2000
Dual Mode Dampener
A/C switched
K&N Dropin
Magnecor
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
