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Joined: Jul 2000
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Let all the freon out and your A/C won't run. My A/C system leaks, and the compressor never comes on anymore because there's no freon.
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Joined: Jun 2000
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Uuh, yeah, that's a really good idea... :rolleyes: Thanks Dom! Next?
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,296
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Hey! You asked for it. That's the way to do it without splicing any wires nor taking the compressor out. :p
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,848
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how about just yank it? free up some HP and lose some weight??
1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Born on 12/3/98
KKM Intake Removed Resonator 35% Window Tint all around Tinted Tail Lights ElKy Mesh Grilles HID
Dyno'ed at 175.3HP/155.5TQ
"How much must I live through just to get away..."
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Joined: Jun 2000
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I never talked about avoiding to splice wires... I'm all for that. I guess I gotta go look for myself. :rolleyes:
Taking it out is not an option. This is not a race car, a/c is nice in the summer... When I want to roast I drive my '81 Starlet with gutted interior.
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Joined: Feb 2001
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Silversvt... I too have been irritated by the cycling of the a/c comp in defrost so, when I read your thread I decided to do it. It's not too hard. Pull out the HVAC control panel. On top of the middle selector knob switchbox is a 4 wire harness. The GREEN/red and GREEN/orange control the compressor. The GREEN/red is HOT when the selector is moved from the off position so I tapped that wire to power the switch/relay (12v 30amp rating). I cut the GREEN/orange line (must be ground cause it's never hot)and installed the switching relay. Now the compressor is turned on or off manually and cycles normally when switched on. If you have basic electrical skills this should be easy if not let me know I will email you with more details. If you're wondering why a relay...the wires are pretty heavy 12-14ga so I thought a relay would be required if you wanted to use a tiny/cute switch. In my profile is a link to WebShots and a "car stuff" photo album...that will be worth 1000 words. Now the problem is a cool place to mount the switch...I don't really want to drill a hole in my dash! ...Ed Hmmm...photo isn't posted yet, might take a little while...
2000 Silver Frost SVT #1625 14 Jan 2000 Dual Mode Dampener A/C switched K&N Dropin Magnecor
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Joined: Jun 2000
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Exactly what I was looking for. OEM operation except when you feel like defeating it. Just the wire colors would have been enough, but the pic is all good too! Thanks a million, I'll pick up the parts and take care of that ASAP.
Thanks again!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 515
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Well, I am an A/C Engineer with Carrier Air Conditioning. Stop the bickering. Below 40 deg. (in the car temp) the A/c compressor doesn't come on. Air below 40 degree. has less than 10% rel. humidity when heated to 70 deg. However, the A/C will dehumidify when warmer and is useful for that. Having said that, CHOICE is BETTER. If you like it, turn it on, if you don't like it, turn it off. EASY. I am going to look at wiring diagram and try to figure out the crazy wiring diagram Ford has in manual. I suspect there is an output right on the floor/def/vent etc. selector knob or on the vacuum actuator linkage that tells the pcm the knob is in def or floor/def. Check with a VOM and I bet you can fake out the pcm and tell it the knob is in def or out of def, without going under the hood. However, for me, under the dash is nearly as bad as under the hood. Too many things, not enough room. I miss my '64 Impala. You could have a party behind the dash and no A/C, No PCM, an upgraded 35Amp alternator and 2 (Two) speed auto (Powerslide errr,,I mean Powerglide) tranny. Really got that 283 CID V8 power to the ground, eventually. 
"My Name is Richard. I am a Contouraholic." 1999 SE Sport Duratec ATX Spruce Green; Drop--In K&N Filter; VentShades; Fog Lamp Fix Mod & PIAA510s with Bumper Braces & Stock Type aiming screw mod; PIAA 9006 Super White Headlamps AIWA CDC-MP3 HU; WeatherTech Mats Viper 600ESP w/Remote entry
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Edorfox did it right. My schematic shows Violet (Hot 12V fan on) and violet/orange(12V when in A/C position or Def Position), though, so your colors may vary. The input to the switch is hot only when the fan is on. The output from the switch goes to the clutch coil through the contacts of a relay. The relay is controlled by cycling switch, high/low pressure switch and WOT relay. WOT relay is controlled by PCM. If you wire like edorfox, you can turn off the compressor or turn on in any other position. By doing it the way he did it, you retain all the proper cycling switches and safety switches. Since this wire powers the clutch, a relay is recommended as edorfox used. However, a 15 amp@12V capable switch and well installed connectors will work too. 
"My Name is Richard. I am a Contouraholic." 1999 SE Sport Duratec ATX Spruce Green; Drop--In K&N Filter; VentShades; Fog Lamp Fix Mod & PIAA510s with Bumper Braces & Stock Type aiming screw mod; PIAA 9006 Super White Headlamps AIWA CDC-MP3 HU; WeatherTech Mats Viper 600ESP w/Remote entry
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Thanks for the info.
I understand what you're talking about with the temperature sensor... Well, Ford must have misplaced it on my car because as soon as the engine is warm, my a/c compressor starts cycling!
I'll be modding it just like was suggested. Oh, and thanks for the head's up on the wire colors as well. I take it that despite the different colors, your switch's configuration was the same right? Meaning equivalent wires came from the same prongs on the back of the switch.
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