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#293553 10/17/01 07:43 PM
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Does anyone know for the Zetec engine how to adjust the idle speed. Currenlty too low under all conditions, cold, hot, especially with the A/C on. Is this a mechanical sdjustment or does the chip need to be re-programmed?

#293554 10/17/01 08:14 PM
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  You don't adjust it.  The PCM controls it.


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Moonlight Blue 1996 Mercury Mystique GS , Zetec engine, ATX.  No mods. (Well, OK, one mod.  Before I got rid of my previous car, a 1994 Tempo, I swapped radios.  I liked the Tempo's radio better.  That counts as a mod, doesn't it?  I also kept one of my Tempo's wheels to use as a spare.  I hate those stupid ?compact? spares that come with modern cars.  Does this count as a mod?  If so, I guess I have two mods.  Replaced burned/melted blower switch and connector on 19 February 2002 with a 1P3T toggle switch from Marvac and a Molex connector from Rat Shack; I guess this now makes three mods.)
#293555 10/17/01 09:58 PM
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Its a little like chasing a ghost...

Some people have had success with the following upgrades:
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Accel Coil
Chip

Of course if there is something wrong/ broken in the first place these may prove to be ineffective. This is a known issue on almost all zetec tours and it is normal for lack of a better term...


Kharma is very real and she is one mean b!tch.
#293556 10/18/01 02:29 PM
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My idle is like that too. The car will hesitate. So I thought it was my plugs so I changed them (same time I did my exhaust) and it didnt work. Thought my exhaust was leaky, fixed it, still a problem. Now I think it may be the wires.


David Litsky
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My Car
#293557 10/18/01 02:42 PM
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there is an "idle speed control" I had the same thing. The car would surge, idle a little too high, or sputter and stall when putting it into gear. NEver got it fixed, but i'm told that's the code they were pulling from the computer. FYI it was a 95.


1999 Silver Frost SVT
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Born on 12/3/98

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#293558 10/19/01 08:56 AM
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There are a lot of things that affect the Zetec idle stability and even when perfect its not that smooth

Idle Control valve (if your car drops to 1000 rpm on lift of and then to 850 when staionary this is working

Throttle Position Sensor

Exhaust Gas Pressure Differential Sensor (tuns on and off EGR valve, fails and leaves EGR on at wrong times)

EGR valve. Sticks open, clean it

Rubber T piece below coil splits easily and is a vacuum leak (Very Common)

Pulse Air Injection system. Sticks open after warm up

HT leads break down very easily

Too large a spark gap. Try 1mm its a lot better

Crankcase Breather valve, Stalls the engine when blocked

So you have a lot to check


Mad Mole
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2L Zetec, Cams, Stage 2 head, Valve work, Powerflow, Unichip, AEM Ram, K&N, Ecotek, 75mm Lower etc.
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