Thanks perry. I realise that maybe I am a little impatient, but if you only knew how much time I put into writing these instructions, step-by-step, you would understnad why I would like them to become a "HOW-TO", and not get lost in cyberspace. I tried to cover every single little detail that I could recall to ensure that the job would be as easy as I promised.
After-all, I am saving CEG members a LOT of money by telling them how to lower their car themselves. Garages charging $250-350 to lower a car are licking their lips whenever they see/hear a CEGer looking to lower their car.
It's pretty bloody easy to do the job, and if you don't mind getting a little dirty the reward of D'ingIY make having a lowered Contour SO much sweeter.

Quote:
Originally posted by perry:
Lance is a busy man... It takes him a while to get updates done to the site. Just be patient, it'll make it there eventually.

In the mean time, I'm gunna copy and paste the directions to the mailing list so they'll be in those archives for a long time to come...



Regards,
Anastazi
Father of the Aussie Bar
anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com

"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music."
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2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150
8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's.
Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502
http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt