Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Autocross and Open Track Before you laugh - AutoX questions. . .

Okay, please do me a favor and don't laugh when I tell you that I have a '99 Contour M/T Zetec that I would like to start autocrossing. Ever since I came across this forum on the CEG site, I have done nothing but dream of autocrossing!

I LOVE road racing (let's face it, I have to - I am a Sebring (International Raceway), FL native - home of the 12 Hours of Sebring as seen on SPEED) and have often wondered how I could get a slice of it - wah lah, here comes autocross!

Okay, so I am driving a stock Contour as far as mechanical goes. I was going to purchase new wheels this summer - looking into 17" with Kumho ECSTA 711 or similar. Before you tell me that 17s will place me out of stock - I know that. Here is why I think I should go with 17s. I have only rear drum brakes and thought the increased handling the 17s offer might help to compensate for the fact that my brakes are not 4 ways. That hypothesis was confirmed with a local tire/wheel (& autox sponsor) dealer. Any thoughts on that from you PROS out there?

Also, when I had my rotors machined yesterday, the tech. told me that they were getting thin (means nothing to me since I wouldn't know a thin rotor if I saw one) and should replace them. My questions is -- since I am considering autox, what new rotors should I replace the old ones with? Again, any thoughts you guys have would be appreciated!

Our first autox is coming up Sunday, but I fear that I will not be ready for this one. I need a coolant flush I think - it's getting black! Original antifreeze with 62,000 miles on the clock. Plus the tires need a rotation and I don't see all that happening before Sunday (4/28). I guess I will have to wait until June for the next event here in Asheville, NC.

Back to the questions - since the 17s will place me out of stock, with future upgrades to the engine and exhaust, do you think I would ever have a chance of competing in the street touring class or is that only a dream with a mere 2.0L Zetec? (again, please refrain from laughing!)

Thanks for taking the time to read this and for potentially posting a reply!

It's really all about the driver. Sure you give up something in the HP and torque department, but FWIW, I got my butt kicked last year by everyone, including an ATX/4cyl Mystique at the Spring Zing AutoX. So it's really about 75-80% driver.

Just do it, then go work on your car. You can rotate your tires after you wear them a bit more You probably will put more wear and tear on your car driving it there an back. You are going to stress the car for 3-5 30-60 second runs. Five miles of stop and go traffic is about as stressful to your car.

Yes, the 17's would put you into STS.

TB

yup all about driver...

in the last autox a STOCK 2002 HYUNDAI ACCENT beat everyone and it wasn't all ****ty cars bunch of wrx's even a 2.5rs with an sti swap

About your rotors. Go with a stock type replacement. Not drilled or slotted. You can go to a better material. I think the BAT rotors should be fine.

Also, if your mechanic says your rotors are thin, then replace them. What he is reffering to is the amount of metal on the brakes. When you AutoX you'll be using your brakes HARD. When you do that they go through rapid temperature fluctuations. Thick rotors won't warp on you whereas thin ones may deform and in the worst case they can shatter(unlikely but I have seen it once)

Brakes are all about converting motion to thermal energy and then dissipating the heat. Thicker rotors store the heat better than thinner ones.

Hope this helps.

dude, screw the 17's and get an aussie bar! the group buy is up soon!
K

I'm not laughing at you, but if you are serious about auto-X, you will need a different car. I saw a non-Si Honda CRX beat a whole bunch of cars at a recent event with just race tires on stock rims. He and another guy just dominated H Stock which is the stock class you would run in. You would be even less competitive in STS. Do not buy 17" wheels...you will be slower, unless you get them for the street and use stock rims with race tires. Don't throw a lot of money at a Zetec for autocross. Now if you want to drag race with Terry's turbo, that is another matter! Sorry to tell it like it is, but save your money for your next car!

I say race your car, bone stock. It will be the most competitive for the least amount of money. I won't tell you to buy another car to autocross, though. Experience is priceless when it comes to racing. Are you going to be competitive with your car off the bat? No, but throwing you in a Miata, Z06, or CRX isn't going to make you more so. Go out there, have fun, and learn a thing or two. If you want to help yourself, make sure to bump up your tire preasure to about 50psi front, 45 rear. Lock the trans in first gear and shift to second if you need to, but you may not on some courses. Once you wear out your current tires, get something stickier. Or, get a set of wheels for the street and go for low profile 14" tires for your OEM rims. Take off the hub caps while racing.

I took 2nd the last time I autocrossed in G-stock in a bone stock 120k mile Cav Z24 w/ 3.1L & 3 speed auto and Yok Intermediates. So, auto Zetec can do okay if driven well. But I don't expect the car to dominate the class.

Aaron

I agree, it's all about the driver... but

I would also lean toward staying in H-stock. Your car has more potential there.

17" rims and braking performance don't seem at all related to me. Seems like someone is trying to sell rims.

Best bang for the buck for you would be:

lightweight wheels in your stock size, or in the largest stock size available to you in your car's model year.

Race tires, possibly in a lower-profile size. Kumho's are cheaper, and more forgiving, than the Hoosiers.

New discs up front, I think they have to be OEM, but that's ok.

Carbon-metallic or Kevlar pads all around. EBC Greenstuff, or Performance friction, etc. I know some places make performance brake shoes. Don't worry about your drums, unless they, too are worn out. Avoid "long-life" pads and shoes, because, guess what, they eat rotors. Much cheaper to replace pads and shoes.

Koni struts. (springs must remain OEM.)

Some kind of performance muffler, such as Dynomax.

K&N (or comparable) drop-in filter.

Concentrate on learning and having fun. When you make your next car purchase, you'll know what you want and what to look for.

Happy racing.

I knew I could count on you guys for some great advice - thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. I may go ahead and give it a shot this weekend, if I can pass tech with my black antifreeze! I want to get started so I can begin my path of improving.

I guess I'll remain stock to get started in autocross so I can get MY skills down. Thanks again for your replies.

Your best mod is seat time. Just go drive the damned thing. Focus on smooth, give your brakes more credit than you normally do, and have fun. You don't need killer brakes or killer power for a well set-up course. You need skill. That ONLY comes from seat time. Well, talent too, but you can develop good talent from lots of seat time. And a Yugo driven by a great driver will beat a 'vette driven by a tool every time. Mods are no substitute for seat time!