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I've recently noticed that my warpage problem is only apparent on light pressure stops. In panic stops, with high pedal pressure, I can barely feel the vibration.
Could this indicate something wrong with the pads or the caliper mounting points? Or is this normal when the rotors are warped?
Marco Tatta
98.5 SE MTX, Duratec
EGR block, fog light
fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve
Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust.
Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
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Joined: Jun 2000
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It might be your rear rotors. I had the same symptoms with my contour. You can check your rear rotors by pulling the emergency brake (hard) when rolling at about 30mph. If you get any shake then it's your rear rotors. Make sure you not using the foot brake when you do this.
Good luck
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Doesn't necessarily have to do anything w/ your brakes.... Control arms, struts, etc. can cause vibrations...
John
'98 SVT - modded
-15.01@91.8
'95 Suzuki GS500E
-faster than the above
---wanting a Speed Triple or Superhawk badly
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Could be that the slide pins in the calipers need to be lubricated. Just an idea ...
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Originally posted by PA 3L SVT:
Could be that the slide pins in the calipers need to be lubricated. Just an idea ... possible, but maybe not lubricated, cleaned and lubricated since they may be a little rusty. Another thing to check is tire/wheel balance.
"careful man, there's a beverage here."
e-mail: boseraq@hotmail.com
aol IM: madhat1412
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try the rear brakes first...that's the easiest to check...
:p
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Good stuf... Anyway the guide caliper pins look the best to me right now. When i change the wheels I will have a look.
Marco Tatta
98.5 SE MTX, Duratec
EGR block, fog light
fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve
Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust.
Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,861
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This is a typical feel for light rotor warpage or warpage in the early stages. All of the other comments are valid too.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
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Cool. If its light warpage, then maybe the machinist will not come back with a tear in his eye this time...and my rotors will stay straight after the cut. :rolleyes: BTW, do I have to do anything to the pads when I have my rotors cut? I never did  so maybe this is part of the problem...FWIW, I heard rumors about sanding a few times on this board...
Marco Tatta
98.5 SE MTX, Duratec
EGR block, fog light
fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve
Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust.
Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,567
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after machining rotors the best thing to do is replace the pad so that they can break in together.
If you don't want to buy new pads you can sand the pads that are on now with something like 100 grit sand paper. Place the sheet of sand paper on the floor, a table or other flat surface. Place the pad on the sand paper friction surface down and sand with even pressure in a semi-circular motion until the friction pad is no longer shiny.
"careful man, there's a beverage here."
e-mail: boseraq@hotmail.com
aol IM: madhat1412
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