Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes BAT X-drilled Rotors

Has anyone used these rotors? If so are they good?
Also would it be better to have them coated?

I've heard people complain about them arriving warped much less how fast they warp once installed.

I recommend slotted/grooved rotors.

Cross drilled rotors don't provide any improvement for street driving. If anything, they can make it worse. With a cross drilled rotor you now have less rotor to contact the pad and more edges to eat up the pads when they are cold. The idea was to allow pad material and heat escape, plus the added weight loss for a race car, where ounces count. Heat is lost in brakes through contact. The thicker / larger the rotor, the cooler the brakes. But are your brakes overheating? Do you just need to put better quality brake fluid and pads with more torque? Try Motul or AP Racing brake fluid. Change it comletely at least once a year. Stainless lines, but that's about it. Rotors brake because the pads leave a residue on the rotor that the pad can work against. Have your rotors cryogenicaly frozen to improve the warpage factor, but make sure you brake them in properly. Every new set of rotors must be broken in properly to ensure their performance no matter who makes them. If you don't you will be resurfacing/replacing rotors every other weekend.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

20% what?

Last 20% less than a full face rotor maybe.

20% less contact area vs full face???

Doesn't less contact area equal less stopping power and more heat (which equals greater fade & less stopping power)

Cross-driling is done to lighten unsprung weight. However race/track cars have 15" brake rotors or so. That means a significantly greater contact patch even with the holes drilled compared to our litle 11" full face rotors...

If you want to vent the gas built up between the pads and rotors then get slotted. However unless you do a lot of autocrossing (or true back road) driving you realy wouldn't notice any difference in fade...

We are being sarcastic since that 20% you keep spouting is bogus... :rolleyes:

Read up on why brake rotors are cross-dilled and/or slotted and about contact area and what effects they have on braking...

Then see my last post...

W3rd.

Another reason why cross-drilling was being used is to dissipate the hot gases in between the pad and the rotor, but I've been told the newer pads don't produce any gases when hot, so it's a moot point.

Saying you get 20% shorter braking distances is bull.

Absolutely no improvement for street driving. Trust me, first hand experience. Never will I own cross-drilled rotors again.

John

I HAD a set of cross drilled- Auto Stop's, put 4 track events on them then they disinigrated in an emergency braking on the road. Shattered the left front and cracked the right front. I'll bring the pieces to SZ if anyone wants to see 'em. Still have the drilled on the rear, but never again on the fronts-- full faced, cryo treated from now on. If you look closely at rotors on cars in Grassroots, you'll see more full faced than any. Not sure about 20%.

I too have lots or first and second hand experience with rotors of all types.

So you can take your whiny, crying attitude and bugger off to... :rolleyes:

Just because others know things you do not is not a reason to fly off the handle and whine...

...and it's no problem that we know everything; you're welcome...

Thanks for the lovely PM. I see I hit a nerve. (though with you being spineless I can't fathom how)
Truth hurts, doesn't it...

Even though you deleted all your posts they are still nicely captured in our responses...

...as for sending me $20...

I suggest doing a google search on braking systems, cross-drilling, slotted, cryo, etc and after that you'll be looking at sending a hell of a lot of people $20.

I hope you are rich!