Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Warp Warp Warp - Them is the brakes!

The specs were changed. Ford recommends the higher reading all the way back to the first models. The current spec is 85 to 100 ft lbs. Whatever setting you use, it should be even. So don't mix 85 on some lugs with 100 on others. Choose a reading, and set them all the same. You should not have any trouble with those readings.

Here's my costly experience.


Get raybestos rotors. They were actually reboxed brembos here in Canada. On my SE, I have had stock rotors (no warp, but major corrosion), cadmium plated eurorotors (very bad, I'm taking them off today, after they have warped 3 times...)and raybestos. The raybestos are the only ones I will use from now on. With decent torquing, these will not warp on you. Of course, that is on my SE, I am not sure if Brembo makes SVT rotors yet.

You know what I do, I take my impackt and tight the lugs till the weel won't fall off, set the car back down and drive...never had a problem...screw the tourqe crap

Well, here's my .02 on the Raybestos thing. I replaced my front rotors with Raybestos rotors at 42k miles. In short, no warpage problems, but the performance is WAY below the stock SVT rotors. I've had a few times where I've been up to 120MPH or so and had to brake hard and almost killed myself and others because the car just plain wouldn't stop! I just received my KVR cross-drilled rotors and carbon fiber pads, I'm up in the air on when to install them due to the salty weather. Anyone here been told NOT to use cross-drilled rotors in wintery weather due to rust in the cross-drilled areas? A guy I know told me about this, of course, the day I received them from UPS! If so, I'm gonna call Joe at SP Motorsports and give him some crap about not mentioning that...

Craig, that sounds like an unusual problem. Most likely incorrect brake-in of the Raybestos. The friction caracteristics and the heat transfer caracteristics should be close from one cast iron rotor to another...

Well, I am of the opinion that under no circumstances can lug torque affect brake warpage. The plane of the mounting surface of the lugs is parallel to the plane of the rotor, but they are seperated by a perpendicular plane of cast iron, and therefore there is no way that lug torque can affect brake warpage.

Here is my experience. My 95 Windstar started developing a brake warpage problem. I put new, Ford brake rotors on and they warped within about 2000 miles, most of which were highway. I'd have them turned, and they would warp again in the same 2000 miles.

So I took it to the Ford dealer and had them turn the rotors on the car. They use a special tool that corrects for any misalignment between the rotor and caliper. This corrected my problem, as it has now been about 22,000 miles, and they still have not warped at all....

Costs about $99 per axle, but well worth it.

Torquing the lugs properly is a huge thing. The most important thing is to get them all near the same. I use a torque stick and air gun.

Craig,
That would be more a characteristic of the pads not the rotors. If they don't warp they are good rotors.

How much do the Raybestos Rotors Run? I think I've warped a set or Cross Drilled & Slotted rotors. Do they make them for the rear too.

-Andy

Andy,

I had the Raybestos metallic pads as well. They are definitely not performance oriented, but will work just fine for ordinary circumstances. The rotors were just as expensive as the KVR's I just bought, in the 80's per rotor. Pads were less expensive than the KVR carbon fiber obviously. And yes, I believe Raybestos makes rear rotors as well.

I can get raybestos for 90$ canadian at a parts store near my house. As usual, YMMV.

FWIW:
I have 23000 miles and have from day one used my hand-wrench to torque to 72 lb ft of torque.

Everything is still stock. Zero warpage, great stops.

Brian Dors
99 SVT