|
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 852
Member
|
OP
Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 852 |
I know for a fact our cars rotors are prone to warping, and that this causes massive vibration. My problem now is that even after machining, I am getting insane vibration. The weird part is , 1 out of 10 times I brake and get not vibration at all. I was thinking maybe the caliper mounting bolts could be loose. Could a badly installed brake spring cause this also? I am really baffled by the intermittent caracter of the problem...
Marco Tatta 98.5 SE MTX, Duratec EGR block, fog light fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust. Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,042
Moderator
|
Moderator
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,042 |
Very well might not be anything to do w/ your brakes, especially since you got the rotors machined...
Struts, misbalanced tires and a few other things can cause front-end vibration.
John
'98 SVT - modded -15.01@91.8 '95 Suzuki GS500E -faster than the above ---wanting a Speed Triple or Superhawk badly
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 105
Member
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 105 |
Couple of things to check;
Did you lube the guide pins with silicon grease when you put the calipers back on.
Does the vibration happen on light brake application just before coming to a stop. If so check your guide pin bushings for excessive play. I recall reading in past forums about the guide pin bushings being the culprit.
It may also be that the piston on one caliper is not working proper. eg. coming out on a angle,(sticking) ?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,861
Member
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,861 |
It is uncommon, but it is possible for rotors to cause an intermittant vibration, especially if it happens when the brakes are hot.
In that case, the rotors don't warp, but rather they gain "thickness variation" when hot and some of the metal expands more than other parts of it. If there is visable "micro cracking" on the rotor face then this has happened enough to cause the rotor to start to come apart. If the rotor has "micro cracking" or is gaining thickness variation when hot, machining the rotors will not help. The rotors will need to be replaced.
I also agree with the above postings that it is critical that the brake pads have shims (or brake quiet) and that the caliper slide pins be properly lubricated. A stuck caliper slide can sometimes also cause brake shudder that feels just like warped rotors.
Jim Johnson 98 SVT
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 852
Member
|
OP
Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 852 |
Well, the it might be the lubrification thing. I remember the monkeys that changed my pads in the front put anti-seize compound on the back of the brake pads. The might also have "lubed" the guide pins... Completely unrelated, what is the best way to remove anti-seiize compound? 
Marco Tatta 98.5 SE MTX, Duratec EGR block, fog light fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust. Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
|
|
|
|
|