Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Gas slotting vs. cross-drilling...ALSO Brembo/Eurorotors

I was considering upgrading to the Brembo/Eurorotor cross-drilled or gas slotted rotors, but I want to know the advantages/disadvantages one has over the other.

Also, can anyone comment on quality or performance of these? How do you know if you got Brembo vs Eurorotor?

If you buy from KVR in Canada (800) 636-0854 they will come in a Brembo or Eurorotor box. Also, the brand name is cast into the rotor, either on the edge of the disc somewhere or on the back side of the rotor hat. I have had both brands for other cars from KVR. Good company, good rotors.

KVR's website gives a good comparison of slotted vs. cross drilled +'s and -'s. www.kvrperformance.com

A full set of slotted and cad-plated rotors for your SVT will run about $500 from KVR. Coincidentally, I called for the info for mine earlier this week.

I just recieved my Powerslot rotors from carparts.com today ($125 each + ship). I debated long and hard about what type to buy and decided to get these for 2 reasons. First, Powerslot is said to use Brembo blanks. Many different sources told me this. Second, testimonials from Corvette, BMW, Camaro, and Mustang guys on various chat sites about auto crossing that rate these highly.
I also read an article in a racing mag that said cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking and do not have an additional cooling effect. The drilling is for weight reduction and on small rotors may actually decrease their abillity to soak up heat. Slotted rotors actually do swipe the face of the pad clean and are not prone to cracking since the slots are not right through the rotor. Hope this helps.

I have the Powerslot from KVR and they work pretty good plus they look great with the silver platting.They are about $90 for the front and $80 for the rear.

I've sworn off drilled/slotted rotors. Reason?

You warp them, you're toast. Can't turn them, they're trash.

I bought Powerstop rotors from SCA. Cost me $240, warped them in 4 weeks 3k, they're in the dump right now.

Bought BAT rotors, and they lasted 8k miles before they started to shudder. I've got well over 10k on them now, but they need to be turned soon.

BUT, having said all this, believe it or not,
the stock Ford rotors lasted 55k miles!

So, from my experience, Ford OEM rotors are the best.

John

I second JVT's sentiments...

I had KVR drilled rotors (Eurorotors), they warped badly after 14 months and they are now in the dump, too. Talk about expensive trash.

-Lance

I agree that the stock Ford rotors are good. Mine (and the pads) lasted 50k miles. I'm working on Powerslots right now though, and they are working very well with 19k miles on them starting with new stock Ford pads. They seem to resist fade better than the stockers, although I haven't had them on the track yet. I personally don't worry about being able to turn rotors, because any time I've ever tried that they've just warped again within a few thousand miles.

I've had drilled rotors on two different cars (an SHO and an AWD DSM) and they only lasted 25k miles or so before cracks started appearing between the holes on the rotor surface. I will not be using drilled rotors again on a street car.

If you like how the car stopped before, just get some new stock rotors and call it good. If looking for a (fairly small) performance upgrade, I'd suggest slotted.

i warped my stock rotors pretty bad during a day at a local track..i was using the EBC GreenStuff pads (which i will never buy again)...i got new OEM rotors put back on and they satarted the shuddering thing again about a month ago. I want to buy at least the KVR pads...does anyone have anything good/bad to say about the pads? I mainly want them for reduced brake dust. The EBCs say in their advertisements they make less dust, but they dust just as much as the OEM pads do...and with white rims, they are black in 3-5 days after washing...totally pathetic if you aske me. I will keep the OEM rotors if that is the best thing to do. I am upset to hear that even the aftermarket rotors warp...what the heck are we supposed to buy to avoid warped rotors?

Nikolas

Where did you order your PowerSlots from, and do you have any part numbers.
I have an E0 SVT and I am wanting to replace my rotors with slotted ones, all four.
I can understand why Drilled might be bad, but why Slotted, I hear that they do better as far as warping...etc.

Thanks

What's the big deal with cross drilled or slotted rotors? This is from the Baer website:


...there are some companies which sell cross-drilled rotors as an actual performance upgrade, in our extensive testing we have seen no improvement to be had by simply crossdrilling stock rotors.

In racing, crossdrilling was designed to alleviate a problem known as out-gassing. In some of the older pad compounds, when the pads reached elevated temperatures consistent with performance or racing use, the binder (that's the material that holds the friction material in place) boiled off, producing a gas. This gas would build up between the rotor and the brake pad, effectively keeping the pad from directly contacting the rotor. The holes provide a relief path for these gasses, as do slots, so the pad can once again contact the rotor. Crossdrilling was NOT designed to facilitate cooling.

Although Baer offers crossdrilling as an option on their systems, it is offered as a cosmetic option only.