You MUST weld a backing plate with two holes (compared to the single hole and slot on the stock backing plate). Otherwise you can't fit the bracket correctly. You CANNOT weld the bracket straight to the frame:
a) You would melt the urethane bushing
b) You would be f'ed if you had to ever take the bar out for suspension work
and
c) Yhe stock backing plate is simply not strong enough.

After one year, my backing plate has bent downwards on both sides, thus allowing a bit of clunking over some bumps.

This is due to the fact that the stock bracket is just a crap design and it is too thin to start with.

I have to make some backing plates myself and weld them on so I too can use the upgraded bracket I supplied with the Aussiebars.


Regards,
Anastazi
Father of the Aussie Bar
anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com

"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music."
-----------------------------------

2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150
8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's.
Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502
http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt