Well, thanks to the guys who did the Alternator removal FAQ as it was a good guide.
It still took me around 3 hours, mainly because the 13mm bolts did not want to break loose until I soaked them with oil for 45 minutes, and hit them with my 1/2" drive impact.
I discovered the underside of my engine is starting to be fairly covered in oil, but not from leaking valve covers; Most likely the pan gasket is due, but that will wait for right now.
The case had the a-typical crack.
I dropped it off a local starter and alternator repair shop here that's been in the same place for 50+ years; they showed me, one brush was pretty much gone, other was about there.
The reason behind the cases cracking is plain and simple the corrosion and rust, which over time puts force on the casing and cracks it.
They are going to completely tear it down, use hd brushes, clean up the shaft, and repaint the entire assembly for me, and give the case a light polish for $75.
The guy there said typically the brushes fail, and that takes out the alternator.
When I go to reinstall this thing, I am doing thing things a bit different however, and I am going to source some new grade 8 metric bolts and bolt it in from the fenderwell instead of the engine compartment, after I drill a 3/4" hole in the frame rail and reinforce it with a piece of tubing and weld it in, so I never have to go through such a act of congress to remove and install an alternator in this car again. I know this seems overkill, but if I ever meet the first year understudy engineer that designed the layout, he's getting a
size 14 steel toe boot to the head.
