So anyway, lemme remind whoever hasn't done it that headers are a total PITA!!!
However, those are the least of my problems since I was able to get everything tight, with the custom dual exhaust setup instead of a Y pipe lining up with the W-R headers (yeah yeah, the rear one comes down at a different angle...) being the biggest PITA of that job. Getting the EGR tube to go where I wanted it was a pain also, but I got it done.
Anyway... I lost/broke a couple bolts... Lost one of the EGR bolts, but the pressure from the tube holds it in place for now. Broke 2 of the throttle body bolts (guess they can't stand up to being in/out a few times, even with the correct torque).
Found 1 bolt on the UIM holding the throttle bracket on that will hold the TB in place until I get 4 new bolts.
However, I ran into a weird problem. The TB gasket I got from Bill Jenkins has a square hole on one end. If I put it to where the square hole was up, the little passageways at the top could suck unmetered air past the TB. Putting it down helped, but I still think my TB is missing something at the top.
I'll take pictures of that tonight and see what you guys think.
Now for the other issue. My car won't idle at all! Upon starting, it will rev to 2500RPM and hold for a while, then drop to 750 (really rough I might add), but as soon as you touch the gas, it's back up to 2500 for a while.
Last night I was driving home from work, and was checking it out some more. Between shifting gears if I blipped the gas, it would rev to 3200 RPM and hold until I let the clutch back out.
Other thing I noticed is that sometimes it will rev between 750 and 2500 continuously.
Unplugging the IAC causes a super rough 750RPM idle (no 2500, 3200, or wavering idle).
So do you guys thing that me cleaning the IAC made it worse than it was before? (500RPM idle, stall sometimes, etc)
Oh, and CEL turned back on after the drive cycle, so now I guess I better buy a scanner and see what it says (since the shop on base charges $35 to read your codes).
