Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by WRX Barge:
Originally posted by striker2:
do lots of head work. bigger valves, port the heads, gasket match the intake side and put bigger roller cams in it with adjustable cam gears.. put on a thinner head gasket to up the compression. if you want more torque (lower et times) try to find some slightly shorter rods and then also deck the block to keep your compression up. if you do deck it you will have to make sure you get the LIM machined to match the new angle. for the exhaust side i think youll have to make a good set of headers that will scavange well and help bring the VE up closer to 100% maybe even over 100%

that should get you into the low 14s probably even the high 13s




yeah.. thinner head gaskets and decked block will be great for putting holes in the pistons when the valves slam into them.




In his defense, he did say to get some shorter rods. But that is just plain stupid work to be doing on this motor.

Mark




as long as you leave a minimum of .035" deck clearance (top of piston @ TDC to bottom of head) you should be fine. the shorter rods will give you more torque cause you are increasing the rod angularity thus increasing the pushing force around and not down. if your still concerned about the deck clearance then get some smaller compression height pistons.

now since josh said that he wanted to do minimal work to it then changing internals is out the window. however you can still get lots of power from changing the cams and doing head work. you want to get your Volumetric efficiency as close to if not over 100% (up to about 130% is possible from most N/A engines) also dont forget that with 4-valves you can go about half the lift required of a 2 valve and still flow the same if not better.


97 contour gl mtx front & rear upper strut tower braces 19mm bat sway bar Koni struts w/GC knockoffs