Here is an assortment of pictures I took during my install. It is also worth while to note that I had removed the intermediate shaft before installing the rear header and I found that the rear was actually easier then the front header. I had the rear installed in about 45min. of course that doesn't include the time I spent removing the intermediate shaft. Anyway on with the pictures...
Tools are important, heres a shot of the extension madness.
I found it easier to remove the EGR down pipe by first removing the Idle Air Control valve.
Left bolt on the bottom of the exhaust manifold.
Right two bolts on the bottom of the exhaust manifold.
The top bolts you can all get at by placing the ratchet on top of the mainfold and using a universal joint with a deep well. You can angle the ratchet down towards you and then use a pipe (in my case the extension for my jack) to break it loose. Remember it pays off very well to spray the bolts a few hours before hand with PB blaster. After the manifold was unbolted I let it drop a ways to unbolt the O2 sensor and EGR down pipe.
After bolts exhaust manifold removed.
Onto the comparison. After everything was removed I took a few shots just to show how the O2 bung and EGR down pipe bung differed in placement.
As far as modifying the EGR downpipe here is my shots with a comparison(I actually had a spare down pipe from my original engine) I also sprayed my down pipe with some engine paint (just so happen to have gold laying around from my caliper paint job) so that it would prevent it somewhat from rusting. This was a big problem with Taurus SHO engines.
Bottom left bolt of WR header.
Bottom right bolts on WR header.
Everything said and done here is the WR header fully installed.
You can see the EGR down pipe in this one along with the O2 sensor
Now for everyone wondering about those MIL eliminators you can build here are the shots from my MIL build with Demon's diagram w/part numbers.
