Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio Subs problem

Not sure if it's the subs but here's my problem... Was driving home on the 408 here in orlando a couple weeks ago and was pushing my system pretty hard but it's not like it's been louder before. My subs started making a weird noise for about 5 seconds then it sounded like I had blown them for a couple seconds and then I heard nothing. I get home and check it out and my amp still turned on (green light) but my subs were not moving at all. Usually when speakers are blown they still make noise don't they...? So then I went under my hood and looked at the fuse that ran to the battery and it had a black spot on it so I figured I had blown that fuse. Today I finally got off my ass and went out and got a new fuse. I put it in and I still get no progress. My battery has been acting weird so I made sure all my wires were connected correctly and sure enough everything looked fine. Any ideas or questions? I have no clue wtf to do lol. Oh and I checked both my fuse boxes (left leg and under the hood) and all the fuses seemed to be ok. If you need to know, I set up my amp so that when I turn on my day lights (second notch) my amp turns on. For some reason the headunits remote wire didnt get [censored] for power and all my friend and I could think of was to hook it up that way and it had been working fine up until a week or so ago... Any help is appreciated thanks!

if your amp is on you didn't blow your fuse.

Push on the cone of the sub and see if it moves in and out freely.

If it does the subs are most likely ok, if they don�t move at all or you feel a scraping or resistance you might have melted or screwed up the voice coils.

how far in and out are we talking about?

well it depends on the subs you have if you find the spec on them it will have a spec called "Xmax" this is the distance that the sub can travel. if it moves at all with out a scraping sound you should be ok.

moves fine...should i take the subs out and test them on a different amp?

if you have an extra amp to try, sure. First check to see if the amp powering up? does it go into protection mode (redlight). Check the fuses that are on the amp itself. What is it doing?

fuses are fine looks wise...none of them look messed up...the green light comes on in the back, im pretty sure it goes straight to green because if it were to turn yellow/red it'd stay that color...the subs dont react what so ever when i turn it on with music.

try the other amp i am out of ideas!!!

Sounds like subs too me. Or something with the input section of the amp.

Trouble shooting

If the amp turns on, positive, negitive, and remote turn on is working.

Disconnect the speaker wires from the amp terminals.
If you have a meter you can do a ohm check on the subs. If you don't have a meter. Take the + and - of one speaker and tap a "D" cell battery across them, the speaker will kick each time you tap the wires if the coil is good.

Also you don't need a sub to test to see if there audio coming out. Any speaker will do for a quick test. Just don't turn it up. Even a cheap fullrange stock speaker or whatever is laying around will do the trick.

If the subs is good, then something in the amp input or the amp it's self is bad.

Also that remote turn on could be connected to the HU + that turns the HU on and off. It should be labled 12+ switch/ign. This is a wire that shows nothing with the key off and goes to + with the car running. It's the wire that makes the HU shut off when you shut the car off. Not that it's causing a problem, just another option, and you don't need to turn on any lights

Try a different speaker on the amp to test if the amp still works. Try hooking up REMOTE to POWER ANTENNA from deck if that wire works lol......not that this will help your situ but maybe for further clicking and popping when you turn on the headlights.......go to a pawn shop and have em test the sub for you too.......then ask em how much theyll give ya for it lol.......