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Originally posted by jd2-98s:


After checking that, take a jumper wire, and jump REM terminal to 12+ terminal (no this won't damage anything) if the amp turns on and stays on, you have a remote turn on problem.




Should I have the the car turned all the way off, turned to accessory, turned on when doing this?

Originally posted by jd2-98s:
If it still does the same thing you have a main power problem either ground or supply wire from battery. If all that is good, then you have bum amps, which doesn't sound right if you tested a few already.






so for this part your saying run just a regular wire from the POSITIVE terminal of the battery straight to the remote terminal on the amp correct? Do I only run this 1 wire meaning I should not have the 12v terminal on the amp wired to the POSITIVE on the battery and also do not have the ground terminal of the amp run w/ a ground wire?


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Originally posted by teamSVTour:
Originally posted by jd2-98s:


After checking that, take a jumper wire, and jump REM terminal to 12+ terminal (no this won't damage anything) if the amp turns on and stays on, you have a remote turn on problem.




Should I have the the car turned all the way off, turned to accessory, turned on when doing this?

Originally posted by jd2-98s:
If it still does the same thing you have a main power problem either ground or supply wire from battery. If all that is good, then you have bum amps, which doesn't sound right if you tested a few already.






so for this part your saying run just a regular wire from the POSITIVE terminal of the battery straight to the remote terminal on the amp correct? Do I only run this 1 wire meaning I should not have the 12v terminal on the amp wired to the POSITIVE on the battery and also do not have the ground terminal of the amp run w/ a ground wire?




The car can be off.

Have your + (that should be running from battery) and Ground (good clean metal) hooked up, and jump from the + to the remote terminal, the amp should turn on.



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Here is a video of what I'm saying

http://media.putfile.com/amp-84



JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
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awesome educational vid. I see we have the same taste is refreshments as well .

I'm finishing up installing some pedal covers that I started yesturday when my drill crapped out. So now after buying a new drill I'm off to finish that and then I will also give this amp trick a try today providing I dont run out of daylight.


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Originally posted by teamSVTour:
awesome educational vid. I see we have the same taste is refreshments as well .

I'm finishing up installing some pedal covers that I started yesturday when my drill crapped out. So now after buying a new drill I'm off to finish that and then I will also give this amp trick a try today providing I dont run out of daylight.




It's all I drink when I'm thursty hehe Glad to be of help, figure nothing beats seeing it done

I just want to add something. If the amp still acts up (haveing the same problem as before) it comes down to either the positive or negitive wire, if those are fine, then something is up with the amp. If the amp turns on and stays on, then something is wrong with the remote switch wire or the wrong wire from the HU. You can hook up speakers and the RCA inputs, and turn on the HU, and leave it's remote wire disconnected from the amp and do the jump test, you will have sound (provided everything is working).

Also at the end of the video I stated something about switched grounds. They don't use that in amps, but there is other items such as car alarms/add-ons that will used a switch ground trigger, so the statement of a switch ground is unheard of is incorrect.


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Ground Connection 110% sure. You might be seeing 6v because amps have caps and that might be the juice that still is left in the amp when you put the voltmeter on it.....if you hold it the it might go down to 6 5 4 3 2 1v then your ground might wiggle and bump up to 12v again. Make sure your ground is TIGHT and BOLTED hardcore. sorry if someone said this already but i just breezed to the bottom to post this lol


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well good news and bad news. I did not even get to do the remote amp test BUT...

I was messing around behind my dash (in the area of my HU) doing some mods the other day and to make a long story short, now my amp powers up fine on accessory and when the car is on. Maybe I had a wire that was creating a premature ground behind my dash or something. I did see some wires were kind of getting pinched. I dont know. So thats the good news.

Now bad news. My sub is putting out treble for some odd reason. It only puts out treble w/ the Audio Art amp, the Pioneer amp DOES NOT put out any treble. Anyone have experience w/ this? Do I need to hook up an equalizer for this Audio Art amp? There is alot of RCA's for "cross-over network"...I have no idea what to do with those. All the amps I've ever used did not put out treble or have that many RCA's.

Here are some pics of the amp and how I have it wired, what the settings are set at etc. The Amp is dirty I know. It has about 6 years of dirt/dust on it from storage.

P.S. I have tried turning down the frequency all the way on both of them but this did no effect the treble. Any suggestions?







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bump


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Put it threw the low RCA inputs.

Also I notice your running one sub. Try to find info online about bridge wiring. IIRC it's + to the left + of the amp and - to the right + of the amp, but that amp may not be like that.



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yes i am running one sub and it has on the amp where to place the + and - on the amp terminal to bridge it but bridging I think would put to much power to one sub...thats why I was using 1 channel. My sub is rated at IIRC 300RMS so thats why i was using one channel.

I think i tried putting the RCA's through all the possible combinations to correct the treble. The only inputs where my sub worked is where I have them in the pic.


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