Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by JEDsContour:

Anyway, I question whether anyone at even twice that price could (practically) put together a better 3L for turbocharging than what AER offers. I'm considering the upgraded internals, ST220 cams, machining for oil squirters, additional quality control steps and such, and the fact that it�s a complete drop-in engine (I hope!); I think $4300 shipped to my door is a bargain. Only mass production allows this.




I CAN. I could do it for half that price for myself.

Originally posted by JEDsContour:

I expect this entire combination will be routinely capable of putting out over 400 FWHP without big risk of damage.




Actually, I can make a stock block duratec engine do this....




OK. Suffice to say that the least troublesome way for me to assure myself of a quality long block, well suited for turbo charging was to write a check to AER.

Warmonger, you�re not saying you could assemble an equivalent Noble long block for half the price that AER does? Are you? $2150?

I know trading time for money really works when applied to engine machining and assembly. I�ve built my share of inexpensive PAW small block ford kits to know that, not to mention a 390 FE and a regrettably high dollar 428 FE rebuild.

So maybe you could source the parts for less than $2150 and use your time and experience and well-equipped shop to put it together. Can you do the machining for piston squirters as well?

My engine rebuilding days are over. I never really much enjoyed that aspect of the car hobby. With the power available from forced induction and electronic tuning, I have no incentive to do the kinds of things I used to do with 60�s iron anyway.




Sorry but I didn't say that I could do it for half the price using their same parts and methods.

I took your sentence to mean an equivalent block capable of sustaining high power forced induction.
I can do that for $2500.
And yes, I already designed an oil squirter system even though I didn't install it in my block due to time constraints, testing, and the fact that I really didn't see the need for the type of duty cycle the engine sees.

Buckshot: Even you must agree that there are enough forged pistons rolling around that they can be had affordably second-hand now. Even new I would have about $1200 into rods and with different piston choices if I chose to do both and that would leave me another $12-1300. I would NOT go to the expense of the ST220 cams as they aren't worth the money when you can produce godawfull amounts of power with a set of stock escape cams or even SVT cams. And don't forget that a long block has none of the conversions requirements to run the contour intakes and stuff like that. He will still have to do all that work on top of the $4500 initial investment. So yeah, I think I'm on the mark for $2500 for a long block that can take 500-600 crank horsepower.

Also, let not forget what we are building the engine for? Street, strip, oval?
One night a week at the drag strip is not the same as racing continually at high rpm/power levels. How long the engine stays at max rpm and max boost is a big factor in the choice for oil squirters, springs, retainers, etc. I"m assuming he's doing what I did, building a street/strip car.


On the other hand:

For peace of mind, $4500 for a long block is a good deal, esp. considering the price of a new stock motor. Excellent deal actually.

But having been in and out of these engines this whole time I know now what to replace and what not to. I know what to mod, and when to do it.

And finally, I can say I know how to produce a most excellent tune and that is probably 75% of the equation when it comes to reliability and durability.

Last edited by warmonger; 06/20/06 03:39 PM.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black