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Alright...time for an update. Got a replacement sensor from Bill and slapped that sucker on their today....STILL rockin only 30psi at idle. WTF!?!?  I am now 100% out of ideas. Everything has but the lines has been replaced/upgraded. I even checked pressure after flashing back to a stock tune, 30psi. For reference, if I do get into the throttle a bit (accelerate slightly harder than everyday, mom is in the car with you driving) my A/F does go to around 14.2 - 15.0 But if i go light on the gas the A/F goes near 17.  It also still has a miss at idle, lean miss I would guess. Also, regarding A/F ratio, I do have an AEM wideband and it seems to swing around too much...I have zero experience with A/F monitoring so I do not know if it is normal or not. I talked to an SCT tuner who could only suggest geting a FMU with an aux pump...I know that is not necessary as sooo many other guys are doing plenty fine without them. If i do pull the vac line off of the sensor the pressure will rise to 40psi. I know I am rambling but these are all of my small discoveries/frustrations since last post.
-Adam-
2k Silver Frost #939 - 36K Miles
H&R + Koni + Mirko + Elky Mesh + Hella Optilux + K&N + LoTek + Mille Miglia EVO 17" + ADC T-28 Turbo + Magnaflow 3" S.S. + exhaust leaks + CEL light + more to come...
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Those numbers sound fairly normal to me. Irregardless of the fuel pressure. The air fuel ratio should be cycling back and forth.
The 14-15:1 on normal cruise is right on, and even 17:1 when you are under part throttle is normal too, it is to save fuel. Remember, the air fuel being higher like that promotes a cleaner more complete burn and as long as the intake charge going into the cylinders is small that will not be a problem.
I'm beginning to think you are barking up the wrong tree. I did the exact same thing years ago when I had misfires, I even originally bought my eManange to control air fuel because I was sure it was an air/fuel misfire.
It turned out to be a bad set of plug wires. You've already spent this much money, just go out and buy a new set of plug wires. Check your plug gaps and either tighten them by around 5thousandths or just get some brand new ones and tighten the gap to the low side of stock plug gap.
Why don't you describe the problems you are having completely first, you original post showed you chasing the fuel pressure but not why you were looking into it.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
And please tell me you didn't use the plugs Scott gave you out of his car. He told me he was going to but told him it was useless because of the way the Duratec fires. The plugs would have to have been labeled with their cylinder # in order to work correctly. Once they start to have any kind of mileage they need to stay put.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 158
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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The reason I started to chase fuel pressure was because EVERYONE told me I was wayyy low at 30psi idle. I was just hoping that the misfire would be solved with "proper" fuel pressure.
Also, I sent a set of data logs to Keith at ADC and he said I was way lean and that I should have 40psi idle.
It is not that I am chasing major drivability issues I just want the vital systems to be in order before I spend the extra cash to get it fully tuned. I do get nice backfires when shifting slowly at just about any level of acceleration.
Todd, I AM using the plugs scott gave me...he said they should be fine...but I can easily replace them too.
Well, my next endevor will be to pull the back seat and re-check the connections on the wire harness and clean the contacts. Also, I will get some new NGKs and swap those in. It may be awhile before I can update, going to Daytona for all of next week.
-Adam-
2k Silver Frost #939 - 36K Miles
H&R + Koni + Mirko + Elky Mesh + Hella Optilux + K&N + LoTek + Mille Miglia EVO 17" + ADC T-28 Turbo + Magnaflow 3" S.S. + exhaust leaks + CEL light + more to come...
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Guarantee your misfire is plugs. If that doesn't correct it move to wires.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by todras:
Guarantee your misfire is plugs. If that doesn't correct it move to wires.
Hahaha. Yeah that may be it. Funny how we can get wrapped up around something and start diving in a certain direction.
I've done this to myself enough times where I complicate something and lead myself into the rat+cheeze smell in a maze, when all I really need to do is step back to basics and look at the maze top down.
Really, it is the end result he needs to be looking at. If the car runs good and no mechanical issues then there is nothing to fix.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Since when does spark plugs cause low fuel pressure? Thats still an issue he has, and needs to be resolved. Though I wouldn't have used already used spark plugs. There too cheap to be doing that. Get some Tr6 plugs and gap at .035.
Back to the fuel pressure. Your using a handheld gauge right? Because I just had an issue with my autometer gauge messing with me and reading low, so I went and finaly bought a handheld universail kit, and hooked it up to find my fuel pressure was fine right were it should be. Wild shot, but maybe try another gauge if you can. Buy one and return it if you have to. Make sure it will fit Ford small schrader valve, and is not for carbs. Most efi kits are fine. I picked mine up on sale for $40, listed at $55. Sorry to make you run around, but you do need to get that figured out, it may or may not be the cause of the misfire. It at least has to be ruled out.
'99 Silver svt
For sale
19" Axis Neo wheels
3.0 parts, pre-98 trunk,
Check classifieds
bp.powell@comcast.net
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by livinsvt:
Since when does spark plugs cause low fuel pressure? Thats still an issue he has, and needs to be resolved. Though I wouldn't have used already used spark plugs. There too cheap to be doing that. Get some Tr6 plugs and gap at .035.
Back to the fuel pressure. Your using a handheld gauge right? Because I just had an issue with my autometer gauge messing with me and reading low, so I went and finaly bought a handheld universail kit, and hooked it up to find my fuel pressure was fine right were it should be. Wild shot, but maybe try another gauge if you can. Buy one and return it if you have to. Make sure it will fit Ford small schrader valve, and is not for carbs. Most efi kits are fine. I picked mine up on sale for $40, listed at $55. Sorry to make you run around, but you do need to get that figured out, it may or may not be the cause of the misfire. It at least has to be ruled out.
Why are you asking me a dorky question like that? 
If the end goal is a car that runs right and if the results show he has a car that runs right...
-driveability
-expected level of performance
-fuel economy
-emissions
Then he doesn't have a problem at all. Thats the point.
He's on the road to the endless money-drain chasing a fuel psi problem that he doesn't even know if it is causing him issues...when he maybe needs to take a step back and evaluate.
Can't see the forest for the trees comes to mind.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 158
CEG\'er
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I am using a handheld gauge...and it is the second one I have used on the car. The plugs will be done for good measure.
However, I am still concerned about fuel pressure even if all the mentioned things seem to be in order...just strange that I am reading 10psi lower than stock, especially with upgraded/new components.
Would injector size have anything to do with this? I am using 24#.
-Adam-
2k Silver Frost #939 - 36K Miles
H&R + Koni + Mirko + Elky Mesh + Hella Optilux + K&N + LoTek + Mille Miglia EVO 17" + ADC T-28 Turbo + Magnaflow 3" S.S. + exhaust leaks + CEL light + more to come...
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by SHOgoFast:
I am using a handheld gauge...and it is the second one I have used on the car. The plugs will be done for good measure.
However, I am still concerned about fuel pressure even if all the mentioned things seem to be in order...just strange that I am reading 10psi lower than stock, especially with upgraded/new components.
Would injector size have anything to do with this? I am using 24#.
IF the injector data doesn't match those injectors then I thing it could.
Maybe switch back to 19# injectors if you can just to see.
a 10ms pulse on a 19# injector would put in less fuel than a 10ms pulse on a 24# injector; or, same pulse width on a bigger injector will dump more fuel.
Perhaps the pcm is just reducing pressure to compensate for this extra fuel since ultimately it is the O2 sensors swithing that drives that train.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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