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Hi.

With the rear of the car off the ground I can grab hold of the rear trailing link/tie rod, twist it, and it clunks. Probably explains the loud noises coming from the rear that some something loose in the truck.

Question 1: Should I just replace the bushings or buy new arms?

Question 2: Who sells the bushings/arm or is it a Ford only part.

Question 3: Is it trailing link or tie rod or doesn't it really matter?

Thanks for your help.
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Barry

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Help me understand what piece you're talking about.

Is the piece parallel or perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the car (from nose to tail)?

Also, is the car on jack stands or ramps?

Last edited by RogerB; 06/01/06 04:14 PM.

Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Hi.

1. Parallel

2. On axle stands

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Barry

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OK.

What is it clunking against?

If the car were on the ground, would it still hit the thing it's hitting?

(I have clunking issues, too.)

I've also noticed a lot more movement in the trailing arms than I would expect. Not sure if it's worn bushings or by design.

Bushings can be replaced with the right tools.

Existing bushings have to be burned out. Not sure if new OEM bushings can go in, or if you have to go aftermarket. Energy Suspension has poly bushings for that location. Some people like them, others say they are too harsh or that they cause binding in the suspension because they are not compliant enough.

There's been discussion on this topic within the last couple of months. Try searching "rear control arm bushings."

Nevermind. Click here to start with.

Last edited by RogerB; 06/01/06 05:02 PM.

Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Hi.

It's not actually hitting anything. But if I grab the middle of the link and twist, I get more movement than I would expect plus, where it connects to the chassis, I get a metal/metal cluck. I infer from this that when I am on the road and the arm "moves" that the same metal/metal condition will occur only many times worse. The trunk probably amplifies this noise.

I'm don't like the idea of the poly bushes for the reason you mention: not sufficiently flexible.

I have checked all the other components and have found no other signs of wear either visually or excessive movement so I'm pretty sure the links are the problem.

Thanks for the search tip. I did look at the existing posts but nothing really helped. Plus, there is the issue of whether they are called trailing links or tie rods! I've always called them trailing links.

Replacement bushes sound like a pain so I'll look for complete links. Does anyone know of a less expensive after-market source or is this a Ford only part?

Thanks
Barry

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I would go with OEM spec. JMHO.

Check out this FAQ regarding parts sources.

You don't have to pay "local dealer" prices for OEM parts.


Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Thanks for your many useful comments. As you suggest I'll probably buy the Ford parts online.

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Barry

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If it is the trailing arms you're referring to, replace with the stock bushings. There's no messy burnt rubber and there's a definite harshness to the poly bushings even if you replace only the bushings in the arms.

The trailing arm bushings are very compliant and it's actually easy to twist them and get the parts to do "metal to metal" contact. This does not necessarily mean that it happens under normal driving conditions as the lateral control arms are more important for wheel control. Look for shiny metal which would indicate that there is a problem. Or simply remove them and have a close look at the rubber bush. If it's cracked and beginning to seperate from the metal then replace them. You'll need a hydraulic press and pressing tools/dies. Doing the bushings in the knuckle is similiar but more difficult due to removal process. If you do remove the knuckle replace all 4 bushings while it's off and it's a good policy to also check the bearings.

The rubber bushings normally last up to 10 yrs. and as little as 5. It depends on your driving environment.


Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Thanks for the reply.

The metal/metal contact that I'm referring to seems to be coming from the chassis end bushing suggesting that the metal sleeve inside the bushing has worn. As you suggest, I'll take the arm off and have a look. The car is over 10 years old but has never been abused. Everything seems to be in pretty good shape apart from the front sway bar bushings/links that I'm replacing next week (BAT replacements). I've inspected the rear suspension for anything that may be causing the noise and, apart from the trailing arm, nothing jumps out at me. I'm also replacing the rear sway bar mounting bushings next week (also BAT). If that stops the noise, then I suppose I can stop looking.

Thanks again for your help.


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