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#1581347 06/01/06 01:19 AM
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or you can do it the easiest way.

hit the side of the part of the spindle where the tie rod goes in with a hammer and after a few hits it pops right out. no damage to tie rod threads or boot. no special tools needed either, and its the fastest way


Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
#1581348 06/01/06 01:46 AM
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That's how you're supposed to do it. On our cars, it doesn't really make a difference if you hit the tie rod stud as it's tapered.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
#1581349 06/01/06 03:03 AM
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hitting the spindle did nothing for me. i tried and tried. i had kept spraying wd40 and finally hit the tie rod above the boot on the metal part and it popped out like it was nothing. maybe hitting the spindle helped loosen it. one hit on the tie rod and it was out. dont have to hammer the hell out of it and dont hit the boot


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#1581350 06/01/06 11:31 PM
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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I didn't even look at the tool, most ball joint separators are just a fork.
...



Need to look. This is not a "pickle fork".



Umm yeah I said I didn't look. Of course I've looked now... but like I said, hammer does same thing, except instead of screwing you just hit. I don't see why you would spend money on the tool or even take the time to rent it from autozone when a hammer works fine. I'm just saying a hammer and wrenches are all that is needed, but if you/anyone wants to get special tools, that's fine. Go for it.




Really I like the tie rod puller and air ratchet myself. Not swinging, no turning.

Hammer works fine, block of wood in the cam gears works fine, and pulling your rear suspension struts off the stopper with a rope and another car, again fine because it worked...


JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
#1581351 06/02/06 12:32 AM
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You don't need a car to pull the rear struts off the stopper with a rope, unless you're really weak. And a block of wood doesn't fit in the cam gears, a file (or something similar in size) can be used, just like the Ford piece of metal. Of course you need something to hold the cam gears/belt from moving while loosening the crank pulley nut, not just that piece of metal.

Last edited by Kremithefrog; 06/02/06 12:35 AM.

98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
#1581352 06/04/06 08:27 PM
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Finally did this today. A hammer and screw driver would have worked but Murray's Auto Parts rents the tool for free so I picked it up. This was easier to do than I thought and am glad I didnt have a shop do it. I would say it is the same difficulty as changing oil.


98.5 CSVT
#1581353 06/05/06 02:52 AM
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You did get it aligned or will be getting it aligned soon, right?


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
#1581354 06/05/06 02:37 PM
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Doin that this week, lifetime alignment package rocks! BTW count the number of turns and my toe was within a 1/10" of an inch


98.5 CSVT
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