|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,732
Hard-core CEG'er
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,732 |
or you can do it the easiest way. hit the side of the part of the spindle where the tie rod goes in with a hammer and after a few hits it pops right out. no damage to tie rod threads or boot. no special tools needed either, and its the fastest way
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
|
I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
That's how you're supposed to do it. On our cars, it doesn't really make a difference if you hit the tie rod stud as it's tapered.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,639
Hard-core CEG'er
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,639 |
hitting the spindle did nothing for me. i tried and tried. i had kept spraying wd40 and finally hit the tie rod above the boot on the metal part and it popped out like it was nothing. maybe hitting the spindle helped loosen it. one hit on the tie rod and it was out. dont have to hammer the hell out of it and dont hit the boot
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 508
Veteran CEG\'er
|
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 508 |
Originally posted by Kremithefrog: Originally posted by Tony2005: Originally posted by Kremithefrog: I didn't even look at the tool, most ball joint separators are just a fork. ...
Need to look. This is not a "pickle fork".
Umm yeah I said I didn't look. Of course I've looked now... but like I said, hammer does same thing, except instead of screwing you just hit. I don't see why you would spend money on the tool or even take the time to rent it from autozone when a hammer works fine. I'm just saying a hammer and wrenches are all that is needed, but if you/anyone wants to get special tools, that's fine. Go for it.
Really I like the tie rod puller and air ratchet myself. Not swinging, no turning.
Hammer works fine, block of wood in the cam gears works fine, and pulling your rear suspension struts off the stopper with a rope and another car, again fine because it worked...
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
|
I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
You don't need a car to pull the rear struts off the stopper with a rope, unless you're really weak. And a block of wood doesn't fit in the cam gears, a file (or something similar in size) can be used, just like the Ford piece of metal. Of course you need something to hold the cam gears/belt from moving while loosening the crank pulley nut, not just that piece of metal.
Last edited by Kremithefrog; 06/02/06 12:35 AM.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 314
CEG\'er
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 314 |
Finally did this today. A hammer and screw driver would have worked but Murray's Auto Parts rents the tool for free so I picked it up. This was easier to do than I thought and am glad I didnt have a shop do it. I would say it is the same difficulty as changing oil.
98.5 CSVT
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
|
I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
You did get it aligned or will be getting it aligned soon, right?
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 314
CEG\'er
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 314 |
Doin that this week, lifetime alignment package rocks! BTW count the number of turns and my toe was within a 1/10" of an inch
98.5 CSVT
|
|
|
|
|
|